On the mid-way point of this trip, I woke up in the magical city of Porto. Also known as Oporto, Porto is the second largest city in Portugal, after Lisbon. Located along the Douro River in northern Portugal, Porto is one of the oldest European centers and its core was proclaimed a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 1996. The western part of its urban area extends to the coastline of the Atlantic Ocean. Its settlement dates back many centuries when it was an outpost of the Roman Empire. Its combined Celtic-Latin name, Portus-Cale, has been referred to as the origin of the name Portgual, based on transliteration and oral evolution from Latin. Additionally, Port wine, one of the country's most famous exports, is named after Porto, since the metropolitan area and the cellars of Vila Nova de Gaia were responsible for the packaging, transport and export of fortified wine. 

     I began my day with a hearty breakfast at Floresta Cafe. I had the All Brunch #2 that included avocado, smoked salmon, scrambled eggs with milk, parsley salad, fermented red onion, roasted tomato, bread with jam and butter, natural yogurt with fruits and granola and a cafe latte. Needless to say, it was absolutely delicious!  Thereafter, I met a walking tour from New Europe Tours. This almost three hour long tour was a wonderful introduction to Porto city center that took us through twisting ancient streets with several viewpoints that offered stunning views of the Douro River and the iconic Dom Luis I Bridge (built by Eiffel's protege Seyrig).

One of the major highlights of the tour was the Sao Bento Railway station. Tranlated as Saint Benedict, the station has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and as a National Monument of Portugal. The building began construction in 1904 and continued over a number of years based on plans by architect Jose Marques da Silva. The large panels of around twenty thousand azulejo tiles (551 square meters) were designed and painted by Jorge Colaco. The murals represent moments in the country's history and the multicolored panels depict rural scenes showing the people of various regions.  The tour ended at Cais da Ribeira, the riverfront promenade along the Douro in the vicinity of the Dom Luis I Bridge. With its colorful and wonderfully decorated facades, the promenade is one of the most beautiful and liveliest districts in Porto's historic centre.  A short walk from the riverfront, I headed to Adega Sao Nicolau for a late lunch. I did not have a reservation, but got there just in time for the last available outdoor table (complete with an overhead heater). I had the octupus salad, salted codfish croquettes, "Lagareiro" style grilled salted codfsh with potatoes and Super Bock (Portuguese beer). I cannot stress how tasty it all was!  After lunch, I made a quick stop at the Fantastic World of Portuguese Sardines. The variety of sardines are beyond extensive and the cans each have an interesting fact associated with the year they depict. However, almost every can is overpriced. Funny enough, there is now a sardine museum in NYC!       Just before sunset, I visted Clergios Church. Translated as "Church of the Clergymen," this is a Baroque church with a 75 meter tall bell tower known as Torre dos Clergios. The church was built for the Brotherhood of the Clergy by Nicolau Nasoni, an Italian architect and painter who left an extensive body of work in the north of Portugal during the 18th century.  Construction of the church began in 1732 and was finished in 1750, while the bell tower and the monumental divided stairway in front of the church were completed in 1763. The main facade of the church is heavily decorated with baroque motifs (such as garlands and shells) and an indented broken pediment. The central frieze above the windows present symbols of worship and an incense boat.  The monumental church tower is located at the back of the building and dominates the city's skyline. There are 240 steps to the top of the tower's six floors. At the tower's upper most platform, the views of the city are nothing short of spectacular.  I ended the tour of the church with a light show. Entitled "Spiritus," it was an audiovisual experience that paired light, music and architecture in the heart of the church. 

For dinner, I made reservations at Cantina 32 on recommendation from our tour guide earlier in the day. I had the squid and shrimp stew and quid in curry sauce. The food was a tad disappointing and not memorable.     Before heading back to the Airbnb, I stopped by the riverfront to enjoy a glass of wine and Super Bock.

Day 2: Vila Nova de Gaia & Matosinhos

     Unfortunately, the weather was not the best for the entirety of this day. As a result, some of my plans had to be adjusted as per the level of rainfall throughout the day. I went to Garden Porto Cafe for breakfast. I had the eggs Benedict (yes, my fav), while my partner had the eggs muffin. As we sat waiting for the weather to clear up, we also had a glass of port wine, a Bohemia Super Bock and pasteis de nata. This Portuguese custard tart is inspired by an original recipe called Pasteis de Belem, which were created before the 18th century by Catholic monks at the Jeronimos Monastery.      After breakfast, I headed to Vila Nova de Gaia via the Dom Luis I Bridge. This iconic and imposing bridge is a double-deck metal arch bridge that spans the river Douro between the cities of Porto and Vila Nova da Gaia. The upper deck carries the light rail and pedestrirans, while the lower deck is used for vehicle traffic. The construction of the bridge began in 1881 and was completed in 1886, making it a testament to the engineering prowess of that era. The bridge was named after King Dom Luis I, who ruled Portugal from 1861 to 1889 and left an indelible mark on the country's history. Designed by Theophile Seyrig (a student of Gustave Eiffel), the bridge showcases intricate lattice ironwork that adds to the bridge's visual appeal while also ensuring its stability and resilience against the strong river currents. The bridge is also a great spot for cityscape photos of Porto and the Douro River.

As soon as I crossed the bridge, the rain picked up. I sought shelter at Casa Portguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau. Billed as somewhat of a tourist trap, the Casa is a work of art with exceptional decoration featuring large chandeliers, a library and the wonderful accompanimet of music from a pipe organ. The menu is focused on the star of the house: the codfish cake. These crispy and golden dumplings are made with the finest selection of codfish, complete with a mixture of potatoes, onions, parsely and traditional spices. Each cake is prepared with expertise by someone crafting the cake in the most showmanship ways. I got the combo of one codfish cake and a glass of wine that came with a complimentary keepsake glass holder. The cake was delicious, albeit a tad salty.      At this point, it was still raining and the sky had become cloudy. I hung a bit at Casa Portuguesa hoping for the weather to clear up, but no such luck. To help pass more time, I headed to Port Calem for a wine tour.  In 1862, the Portuguese government passed a law that meant all of the port wine companies from the surrounding Douro Valley region had to move their aging cellars, storage and export processing to Vila Nova de Gaia. This allowed the government to clear space within the centre of Porto city and made it easier for them to keep a closer eye on the popular port wine industry. As a result, you're spoiled for choice when choosing a wine tour in the neighborhood. I opted for the premium Calem tour with three wine tastings because it came highly recommended by a fellow traveler I met during the walking tour the day before. The ticket included a guided tour of the interative museum and port caves where you learn about the history of port, along with the growing and aging processes of the wine. My favorite of the tasting was the Tawny port. Ruby and Tawny are two basic types of port that have a alot in common. However, tawny spends more time aging in wood before bottling, specifically smaller sized barrels, which permits slow oxidation and significantly affects its appearance, aroma and taste.  By late afternoon, the weather had barely improved. As a result, I decided on an early dinner at Casa Serrao Mastosinhos. I took the metro from Mouzinho Silveira to Mastosinhos (Praia). As it was my final dinner in Porto, I splurged on the grilled sardines, the octupus a Lagereiro, mussels and sopa de peixe (fish soup). Everything was absolutely scrumptious.

Day 3: Porto to Lisbon

     On my last day in Porto, my breakfast included leftovers from the night before, accompanied by a bottle of wine left by the Airbnb host. 

     I forgot to mention I had KFC at some point.

Upon checking out of the Airbnb, I still had some time before my train from Porto to Lisbon. So I headed for coffee and cake at Combi Coffee Roasters. We met a cute dog friend while at the cafe. 

     Re-energized by way too much coffee, I boarded the Alfa Pendular at 2:30 p.m. By 5:22 p.m, I arrived at Santa Apolonia station in Lisbon. From there, it was a short walk to my Airbnb as I chose to stay in Alfama - a quaint, charming and medieval district that is the oldest neighborhood in Lisbon and the second oldest in Europe. Its winding and tiled streets survived the earthquake, fire and tsunami of 1775 and has remained in the same format as before the disaster until this day. Alfama is also famous for fado music. For dinner, I headed to O Sophinas. I had the peri peri chicken, creme de marisco (creamy seafood soup) and chourico assado (a Portuguese cooking technique that involves grilling traditional pork sausage over a boat shaped terracotta bowl called assador).  I cannot stress how wonderful everything tasted. Also, the atmosphere was quite fun as 2022 FIFA World Cup was being played in Qatar. I don't recall which teams were playing that evening, but as our server said, it was "good football."

    Before heading back to the Airbnb, I stopped by Koa Lisboa. The rainforest decor was very inviting, as were their selection of craft beers. 

   I must add, Lisbon is quite beautiful at night. 

Day 4: Lisbon

     After a good night's rest, I headed to Dear Breakfast Chiado for brunch. I had the avocado toast with poached eggs, pickled onions and beet hummus while my partner ordered the salmon on brioche with poached eggs and hollandaise sauce with potatoes. Both dishes were delicious as we enjoyed the occasional passing of the tram from our balcony seating. 

On the way to meet the walking tour, I made a quick stop at Ginjinha Sem Rival to have a shot of ginjinha. Described as a "must try" in Lisbon, ginjinha or simply ginja, is a Portuguese liquer made by infusing ginja berries (sour cherries) in alcohol and adding sugar together with other ingredients, e.g. cloves and/or cinnamon sticks. Ginja is served in a shot form with a piece of the fruit in the bottom of the glass. It was so delectable, I had a second.

I also stopped by another shop to snag some pasteis de nata (my new favorite custard tart). Didn't take a photo of the pastry, but here's a photo of the line outside the shop.

Around 11 a.m., I met a walking tour at Praca Luis de Camoes for a two hour tour of Lisbon. As we crossed the winding hilly streets of Lisbon (and I do mean hilly!), our guide treated us to stories of Portuguese explorers and their respective voyages, along with an indepth history of how the 1755 earthquake helped shaped the town. We also learned of the hardships faced by the citizens during the Portuguese dictatorsip and the eventual peace that prevailed. Have I mentioned how steeply hilly Lisbon is?

The tour ended at Praca do Comercio - the large, harbor facing plaza in the capital and is one of the largest in Portugal. After the 1755 earthquake, the plaza was completely remodeled as part of the rebuilding of the Baixa during the reign of King Jose I. From the 19th century onwards, the plaza became the seat of the some of the most important Portuguese state departments.  At this time, it was after lunch and I had already accumulated over 10,000 steps. Hence, I headed to lunch at Le Petit Cafe. I had the seafood rice and lemon basil ice cream with marinated apple slices. The food was okay, but not memorable.       Thereafter, I headed to Castelo de Sao Jorge for the remainder of the afternoon. Translated as Saint George's Castle, the castle has been classified as a National Monument since 1910. Human occupation of the castle hill dates to the 8th century BC, while the oldest fortifications on the site date from the 2nd century BC. The hill on which the castle stands has played an important part in the history of Lisbon, having served as the location of fortifications occupied successively by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans and Moors, before its conquest by the Portuguese in the 1147 Siege of Lisbon. Since the 12th century, the castle has served as a royal palace, a military barrack, home of the Torre do Tombo National Archive and now as a national monument and musem. The castle stands in a dominant position on the highest hill in the historic center, providing spectacular views over the city and the Tagus River estuary.  I enjoyed the sunset views over the city and made new peacock friends. 

On my way to dinner, I briefly stopped at the Christmas Market in Rossio Square. The market was a tad too crowded, so I had some gluwein and left for dinner.  Since I had an amazing dinner the night before, I found my way back to O Sophinas. This time around, I had mussels "Marinheira" style and squid "Algarvia" style. Once again, the food was absolutely delicious! 

Day 5: Sintra 

     I woke up to a wonderful sunrise with magnificent views of the city and ocean from my window.  Since this was going to be a long day, I had an early morning hearty breakfast at Quase Cafe. I had the avocado toast with poached eggs, while my partner ordered the Quase Benedict, which was bacon toast with poached eggs and hollandaise sauce sprinkled with fresh spinach. We also had coffee, beer and a granola bowl. This breakfast was probably the best I had in all of Portugal. 

     After breakfast, I got the train/bus combo ticket for Sintra at Rossio station where I boarded the train for an hour long journey to Sintra. Upon arrival at Sintra station, I got on the 434 bus to Pena Palace. Sintra is a town and municipality in the greater Lisbon region located on the Portuguese Riviera. The area includes the Sintra-Cascais Nature Park through which the Sintra Mountains run. The historic center of the Vila de Sintra is famous for its 19th century Romanticist architecture, historic estates and villas, gardens, royal palaces and castles, which resulted in the classification of the town as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Sintra's landmarks include the medieval Castle of the Moors, the romanticist Pena National Palace and the Portuguese Renaissance Sintra National Palace. My first stop was Pena Palace. Unfortunately, it was quite cloudy when we visited, so my outdoor snaps are not the best.  Pena Palace is a castle that stands on the top of a hill in the Sintra Mountains above the town of Sintra. It is a national monument and constitutes one of the major expressions of 19th century Romanticist in the world. The palace is one of the seven wonders of Portugal. The castle has quite an extensive history, which you can read here. Today, it is used for state occasions by the President of the Portuguese Republic and other government officials. Afterwards, I explored the surrounding the gardens and park of Pena Palace. Spread over 200 hectares, this lush forest and dense woodland is a purposely designed landscape that sits harmoniously within its surroundings and complements the Romantic architecture style of the palace.  For lunch, I took the bus from the bottom of the park to Tascantiga. I had the cod dumplings, roasted chorizo, octupus blades "Lagaeiro" style and potato wedges. The dumplings were quite tasty. From Tascantiga, it was a short walk to Quinta da Regaleira. Located near the historic centre of Sintra, the quinta (traditional term for estate in Portuguese) was designed and built in the late 1800s. The property consists of a Romantic palace and chapel, and a luxurious park that features lakes, grottoes, wells, benches, fountains and a vast array of exquisite constructions. The palace was designed by Italian architect Luigi Manini.       The most interesting part of the estate were the Initiation Wells (or inverted towers), which are two wells that better resemble underground towers lined with stairs. The wells never served as water sources. Instead, they were purportedly used for ceremonial purposes. Of the two wells, the larger one contains a 27 metre spiral staircase with 23 small niches on the side. The nine flights of stairs could be linked to the Knights Templar, which had nine founders. They may also symbolize the nine levels of Hell from Dantes' Inferno. At the bottom of the well is an inland stone compass with the Templar cross. The tunnels between the stairs connects to various caves and other monuments located around the park.      Bodies of water can be found in several places throughout the park.     Also, many exotic plants and animal statues.  By this time, the sun began to set so I left for the bus back to Sintra station. An hour later, I was back in Lisbon. I was a bit bummed that I didn't have enough time to trek to The Moorish Castle, but you can read about it here. For dinner, I made reservations at Taberna da Baixa. I had the grilled octupus and codfish in cream sauce with tawny wine and Super Bock. The codfish in cream sauce was so good!

Before heading back to the Airbnb, I stopped by Trobadores - Taberna Medieval. I spied this medieval style tavern on the first day we arrived in Lisbon and knew I had to give it a try. The tavern is cozy with wooden tables and the ambient music takes you back to the times of kings and knights. The mead was quite refreshing. 

Day 6: Lisbon

     On my last day in Lisbon, I was a bit spent, so I slept in. I skipped breakfast and headed to Belem Tower in the afternoon. Translated as the Bethlehem Tower,  or officially the Tower of Saint Vincent, it is a 16th century fortification located in Lisbon that served  as a point for embarkation and disembarkation for Portuguese explorers and as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. The tower symbolizes Portugal's maritime and colonial power in early modern Europe. It was built during the height of the Portuguese Renaissance and is a prominent example of the Portuguese Manueline style. The structure was built from lioz limestone and is composed of a bastion and a 30 metre four storey tower. Since 1983, the tower has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the Jeronimos Monastery.  After spending some time at the tower, I headed for dinner at Lisboa e Linda. Luckily, I was able to get a table without a reservation due to the extremely lovely host. I had the deep fried asparagus, confit codfish fillet with potatoes and shrimp in Indian curry sauce. Completely content with a hearty dinner, I made my way to Pink Street. This Instagram-worthy street is painted pink and covered in colorful umbrellas. The street is quite lively with the entourage of bars and hole in the wall snack joints. 

On the way back to the Airbnb, I rode the famous 28E tram. This classic tram is easily recognizable from its quaint yellow color and riding it is truly an experience as it rattles and screeches as it travels the narrow streets of the city, and I do mean narrow!       After a good night's sleep, I headed to the airport for my flight home. Over the course of 10 days, I had averaged approximately 25,000 steps per day (not forgetting that day in Barcelona where it was almost a marathon). Surprisingly, I never felt (too) tired. Perhaps all the wonderful food and glasses of wine kept me well fueled? Funny enough, despite eating almost three times a day with various snacks in between, not an ounce was gained! In final, I had an amazing time and would definitely revisit both Spain and Portugal as I've only barely scratched the surface of either country. 

Day 1: Barcelona

     I flew into Barcelona the night before and opted to stay in the Gothic Quarter as it was the most central location for a lot of what I had planned for this trip. After a good night's rest, I had an amazing breakfast at Benedict Brunch. I highly recommend their Eggs Benedict Barcelona!. Thereafter, I met a walking tour for 11 a.m. with New Europe Tours. Over the course of this 2.5 hour tour, we explored the Gothic Quarter and the El Born District where we stopped by Barcelona Cathedral, Santa Maria de Mer, Placa Sant Jaume and many others.

     Barcelona is the capital and largest city of the autonomous community of Catalonia, as well as the second-most populus municipality in Spain. According to tradition, Barcelona was founded by either the Phoenicians or the Carthaginians, who had trading posts along the Catalonian coast. In the Middle Ages, Barcelona became the capital of the County of Barcelona. After joining with the Kingdom of Aragon to form the confederation of the Crown of Aragon, Barcelona, became the most important city and the main economic and administrative centre of the Crown, only to be overtaken by Valencia. Valencia had been wrested from Moorish control by the Catalans, shortly before the dynastic union between the Crown of Castille and the Crown of Aragon in 1492. Thereafter, Barcelona became the centre of  Catalan separatism, briefly becoming part of France during the 17th century and again in 1812 until 1814 under Napoleon. It was the capital of Revolutionary  Catalonia during the Spanish Revolution of 1936, and the seat of government of the Second Spanish Republic later in the Spanish Civil War, until its capture by the fascists in 1939. After the Spanish transition to democracy in the 1970s, Barcelona once again became the capital of an autonomous Catalonia. Today, Barcelona has a rich cultural heritage and is a major tourist destination. The city is also famous for being a home to alot contemporary artists. After the tour, I stopped by Mercat Santa Caterina. This spacious and modern market building was constructed on the former site of the Covenant of Santa Caterina, from which it takes its name. During the post-Civil War period, Santa Caterina became the main food supplier to the towns on the outskirts of Barcelona. People from Sant Adria, Santa Coloma and Mataro came on the tram to buy food in this market in times of shortage. Today, the market is home to food stalls and restaurants which serve outstanding quality produce. I had some calamari and a beer at one of the mini restaurants. The remainder of the afternoon was spent exploring the Gothic Quarter at my own leisure. I ended the evening with a delicious dinner at Bodega Vasconia. They have an amazing tapas menu that includes some fabulous seafood dishes. My personal favorites included the patata bravas (crispy friend potatoes with a spicy red sauce), the pulpo a la galiega (Galician style octupus) and the chipirones fritos (fried whitebait)

Day 2: Barcelona

     On the second day, I opted for a more local breakfast at La Cova Fumada. Opened in 1944, this restaurant remains a family business that everyone in the city knows by name. This cozy restaurant preserves the essence of Barceloneta, an old fishing district, and fresh fish that is never missing from the menu. I enjoyed the mussels, squid, sardines and the toasted bread with tomato sauce. (NB: they accept cash only). After breakfast, I took a stroll along the pier where I came across some interesting ships and the Museum of the History of Catalonia. 
I continued on La Rambla and made a brief stop at Mercat de la Boqueria. The market was way too busy for my liking, so I had a quick cappuccino and left. I took the metro to Montjuic where I explored the Magic Fountain and enjoyed views of the promenade from the National Art Museum of Catalonia. 
             Thereafter, I took a ride on the Montjuic Cable car for aerial views of the city and the port for cruise ships. 
At this point, I was famished. I headed to Colom Restaurant for a late lunch. I had the seafood paella, onion rings, Chistorra al Pacharan (Chistorra sausage) and a mug of sangria. Every dish was absolutely delectable.       Re-energized, I walked to the Fira da Santa Liucia Christmas Market at the Cathedral of Barcelona. The market was filled with vibrant shops that had miniature figurines to decorate the home with a nativity scene. However, the highlight was the abundance of Caga Tio for sale. Caga Tio, or the poo log, is a small wooden log painted with a huge smiley face and adorned with the traditional Catalan barretina hat. The Caga Tio is placed besides the fireplace and is cared for from 8th to 24th December by the children in the household. The children then keep Caga Tió warm by covering him with a blanket, feeding him sweets and dried fruit to fatten him up for their feast on Christmas Eve. This is when, usually after the main meal, the children start to hit the log with sticks, all the while singing a special song in the hope that he will excrete gifts and sweets for them. As the blanket is finally removed, after days and weeks of anticipation, a treasure trove of small toys, turrón, and Christmas goodies are revealed as presents for the children. And, in a tradition dating back to a time when rural families would gather around the fire, Caga Tió is then thrown amongst the flames to provide the whole household with much needed warmth.
     Thereafter, I took the metro to Basilica de la Sagrada Familia. Famously known as the Sagrada Familia, it is the largest unfinished Roman Catholic Church in the world. This iconic building is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most popular tourist attractions in Spain. Construction began in 1882 and has been ongoing for over 140 years. The chief architect, Antoni Gaudi, dedicated his whole life to this project and still, by the time of his death, less than a quarter of the building was completed. However, with new donations, the completion of the project is expected in 2026 - the centenary of Gaudi's death. Once the spires are completed, Sagrada Familia will become the tallest cathederal in the world. I did not visit the interiors as I'm waiting on the completion in 2026 to make a return visit on its completion.  Infront of the cathedral was a Christmas market. I got a meringue and rested my feet as I ate.  About a 30 minute walk from the Cathedral is Casa Batllo - another fascinating building designed by Gaudi and is considered one of his masterpieces. A remodel of a previously built house, it was redesigned in 1904 by Gaudi under orders of the induratrialist Joseph Batllo. The local name for the building is Casa dels ossos (House of Bones),as it has a visceral, skeletal organic quality. In 2005, Casa Batllo also became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
I finished the day with a well deserved dinner at Bodega la Tinaja. I had the Catalan pork sausage on bread, a spicy fishball, calamari with peas, the cheese board and a bottle of wine.  By the end of this day, I had walked a whopping 40,000+ steps! 

Day 3: Monsterrat

     On the third day, I had an early breakfast at the Milk Bar. The eggs benedict were very delicious.

Thereafter, I headed on my day trip to Monsterrat. I bought the all in one Monsterrat ticket from Espanya station in Barcelona. From Espanya station, I took the train to Aeri de Monsterrat. From the foot of the mountain, I rode the cable car to the monastery.  Monsterrat is one of the most important religious locations for the Catholic Church and is a practicing Abbey for Benedict Monks. Roughly 1,000 years ago, a special statue called La Moreneta, or the Black Madonna, was discovered in a cave by a shepherd. La Moreneta is the Patron Saint for Catalonia, where Monsterrat and Barcelona reside. The Church has been attacked and destroyed over the years leaving very little of the original church intact today. What remains today is definitely worth the visit, even if you go just for the views and a hike. 

   Left: interior of the cathedral; right: The Black Madonna

Monsterrat derives from the Latin and Catalan meaning "serrated mountain." This name describes the moutain's jagged, saw-toothed appearance, which is characterized by its unique peaks and rocky formations. These formations have been shaped over millions of years by natural erosion process, creating a dramatic and distinctive landscape. 
      Top left: yellow cable car to the top; top right: view from the cable car; bottom photo: view from cable car of below station and highway

   Left photo: view from the upward funicular; right photo: view from the top of the mountain
For dinner, I ate at Taller de Tapas. I had the fried chipiron squid, and pan steamed mussels, which were both very tasty. The next day, I took a flight from Barcelona to Lisbon. An hour later, I took the metro from the airport to Oriente where I boarded the fast train from Lisbon to Porto. Three hours later, I checked into my airbnb. It was a long day of travel, but I had a good night's sleep in preparation for the Portuguese portion of my vacation.
Top photo: Barcelona train station; middle photos: snap of Lisbon from plane & pasteis de nata; bottom photo: Oriente station in Lisbon

Stay tuned for the Portugal itinerary!

Day 1: Christmas Market & Tower Bridge

     Unfortunately, we woud up with only half a day to explore because Heathrow airport was a mess and it took forever to get from the airport to our Airbnb. After a quick shower, we headed to the Christmas market near Tower Bridge. While there, we tried samples of Indian, Korean and German cuisines. However, the cheeses were so irresistable, we wound up buying a few to take back with us. 

Thereafter, we visited Tower Bridge (not to be confused with London Bridge). Tower Bridge is a combined bascule and suspenion bridge built between 1886 and 1894. Designed by Horace Jones, it was engineered by John Wolfe Barry with the help of Henry Marc Brunel. It crosses the River Thames close to the Tower of London and is one of the five London bridges owned and maintained by the City Bridge Foundation, a charitable trust founded in 1282. The bridge stands at an impressive 800 feet (240 m) in length and consists of two 213 foot (65 m) neo-Gothic bridge towers connected at the upper level by two horiztontal walkways, and a central pair of bascules that can open to allow shipping. Originally, the bridge was hydraulically powered. As of 1972, the operating mechanism of the bridge was converted to an electro-hydraulic system. 

By this time, we were cold and our energy was shot. We finished the night with a few pints of beer in the company of some old friends.

Tower Bridge seen from Queen's Walk

       Upper image: view of the Tower of London; bottom right & left images: views of downtown London from Tower Bridge

Day 2: The Sights of London

     After some much needed sleep, we were ready to explore. We met our friends for a wonderfully delicious breakfast at Bill's Covent Garden. Powered up by a second round of coffee, we met our tour guide for a three hour walking tour of London. We departed from Covent Garden and worked our way to the Palace of Westminster. En route, we stopped by the National Gallery and Trafalgar Square. The site around Trafalgar Square has been a significant landmark since the 1200s. The site of the present square formerly contained the elaborately designed enclosed courtyard of the Royal Mews from the 14th to the 17th centuries. After George IV moved the mews to Buckingham Palace in the 19th century, the area was redeveloped by John Nash and subsequently reopened in 1844. The square's name commemorates Britain's naval victory in the Napoleonic Wars over France and Spain that took place on 21 October 1805 off the coast of Cape Trafalgar. The 169 foot (52 m) Nelson's Column at the centre of the square is guarded by four lion statues. Several commemorative statues and sculptures also occupy the square. However, the Fourth Plinth was left empty since 1840 and has been host to contemporary art since 1999. The most interesting was probably the "Gift Horse" by German-born artist Hans Haacke in 2015.

   Left image: Trafalgar Square TripSavvy images; Right image: Nelson's Column & the lion by Trainline images

Christmas market infront of the National Gallery

     Thereafter, we continued our walk to The Mall, which is London's primary ceremonial road starting at Trafalgar Square as it leads through Admiralty Arch into St. James' Park. This 1km road originally laid out by Charles II, the Mall became the grand approach to Buckingham Palace when the palace became the official royal residence on accession of Queen Victoria. It passes St. James' Palace, King George VI & Queen Elizabeth Memorial, Clarence House and finishes at Buckingham Palace. 

View of the sidewalk of the mall leading to Buckingham Palace

    Left image: King George VI & Queen Elizabeth (Queen Mother) Memorial; Right image: St. Jame's' Palace

     A few steps away from St. James' Palace, we finally arrived at Buckingham Palace. Needing no introduction, but warranting a few lines, Buckingham Palace is the official royal residence and administrative headquarters of the monarch of the United Kingdom. Originally known as Buckingham House, the building at the core of today's palace was a large townhouse built fot the Duke of Buckingham in 1703. It was acquired by King George III in 1761 as a private residence for Queen Charlotte and became known as the Queen's House. During the 19th century, it was enlaarged by architects John Nash and Edward Blore. In 1837, Buckingham Palace became the London residence of the British monarch on the accession of Queen Victoria.

We continued the tour into St. James' Park. A 23 hectare (52 acre) urban park in the City of Westminster, this royal park was named after a once isolated medieval hospital dedicated to St. James the Less, now the site of St. James' Palace.

A resident colony of pelicans has been a feature of the park since a Russian ambassador gifted them to Charles II in 1664. Over 40 pelicans have since called the park home.

From the park, we stopped by the Horse Guards building that is also home to the Household Cavalry Museum. A living museum open to the public, it offers a 'behind the scenes' look at the work that goes into the ceremonial and armoured reconnaissance role of HM The King's Mounted Bodyguard.

View of the Household Cavalry Museum

     Around noon, we arrived at Westminster Abbey. Undoubtedly, the Abbey is one of the most famous religious buildings in the world and has served an important role in British political, social and cultural affairs for more than 1000 years. Situated on the grounds of a former Benedictine monastery, it was refounded as the Collegiate Church of St. Peter in Westminster by Queen Elizabeth 1 in 1560. In spite of its name, the facility is no longer an abbey, nor does it house monks or nuns. Instead, Westminster Abbey has been the site of royal coronations since 1066 and has been a working facility for religious services since the 10th century. Thirty royals are buried in the abbey, including 13 kings, 4 queen regnants and 11 queen consorts. Additionally, Geoffrey Chaucer was the first poet to be buried in the Poets' Corner in 1400, while Charles Dickens was interred at the abbey against his wishes. 

    View of the abbey from Victoria Street

The building is chiefly built in a geometric Gothic style. The church has an eleven bay nave with aisles, transepts and a chancel with ambulatory and radiating chapels. The nave and transepts have sixteen crystal chandeliers made of hand-blwon Waterford glass and were donated by the Guinness family in 1965 to commemorate the abbey's 900th anniversary. The building is supported with two tiers of flying buttresses.

   Left image: the crystal chandeliers; right image: side view of the abbey (images from Shutterstock)

     The tour ended at the Palace of Westminster. The building was originally constructed in the 11th century as a royal palace and the primary residence of the Kings of England until 1512 when a fire destroyed the royal apartments. Thereafter, the monarch moved to the adjacent Palace of Whitehall, but the remainder of the palace continued to serve as the home of the Parliament of England, which had met there since the 13th century. One of the most interesting features of the Palace of Westminster is Westminster Hall. Originally built in 1097, the hammer beam roof was added in 1392 and 1401 and is the largest medieval timber roof in northern Europe. It is the oldest part of the complex to survive the devastating 1834 fire.

                                       Inside view of Westminster Hall (Shutterstock image)

Arguably, the most famous feature of the Palace of Westminster is its clock tower - Elizabeth Tower, better known as Big Ben. Big Ben is actually the 13.7 tonne bell hanging inside and is named after Benjamin Hall, the first Commissioner of Works when the tower was completed in 1859.

After the tour, we were famished. We had a lovely lunch of fish & chips at St. Stephen's Tavern. Thereafter, we crossed Westminster Bridge for some sunset photos of the Palace of Westminster, Big Ben and the London Eye. By now you've probably noticed we were graced with extraordinary sunlight for the duration of our visit (a rare sight indeed).

At dusk, we stopped by the Christmas market at Trafalgar Square where we had some gluwein and bratswurst. We finished the evening with a quick walkthrough of Leadenhall Market at London' East End. However, it was way too crowded for our liking. Afterwards, we made our way to Chinatown which was also very crowded. After browsing a few places for dinner, we wound up having a delicious meal at Tamarind Kitchen. I highly recommend their jaggery old-fashion.

Day 3: Natural History Museum

     Considering day two was well over 35,000 steps of walking, we opted for a more relaxed final day. We made our way to Kensington where we had a brisk morning stroll around the Queen's Gate Terrace and Kensingston Gate. Thereafter, we met our friends for an amazing breakfast at Coco Momo. If you're ever in the neighborhood, give the smashed avocado toast a try.

    View of Kensington neighborhood

Being avid dinosaur enthusiasts, we couldn't visit London and not not go to the Natural History Museum. The museum is home to life and earth science specimens boasting some 80 million items within five main collections of botany, entomology, mineralogy, paleanthology and zoology. The Hintze Hall (central hall) of the museum is an architectural beauty. The blue whale skeleton, Hope, is an impressive display in the central hall at some 82 feet (25 m) long and weighing 4.5 tonnes. Quite a few movies and videos have been filmed in various sections of the musem, including Paddington, Poirot: The Veiled Lady, and Breathe by Jax Jones.

The dinosaur gallery housed many specimens, including the first ever T-rex skeleton ever discovered, the first skeleton of Iguanodon, the skull of a triceratops and the gigantic armoured Scolosaurus. However, the hall was very dimly lit, so photos were a tad hard to capture.  Did I mention there was a T-rex dressed for the holidays?

Apart from the dinosaurs, I was most excited to see Megatherium (the giant ground sloth). The first fossil was discovered in 1788 by Manuel Torres in Argentina. The fossil was shipped to Museo Nacional de Ciencias Naturales in Madrid in 1789 where it remains. It was then reassembled by Juan Bautista Bru, who also drew the skeleton and some individual bones. Based on Bru's illustrations, Georges Cuvier eventually determined that the fossil was a sloth in 1796 who most likely used its claws to dig tunnels. Since the original discovery, several other megatherium skeletons have been discovered across South America in Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Paraguay, Peru, Uruguay and Guyana! Also, I spotted a harpy eagle from South America.

I must admit, I was a bit disappointed with the layout of the specimens at the museum. It was not the most efficient use of space and due to dim lighting in a few of the galleries, it was hard to read any of the info bars for what we were looking at. Actually, some specimens were also missing labels entirely.

     After the museum, we took a stroll to the Royal Albert Hall and Kensington Gardens. The sun was out, but it was a tad cold due to the wind, so we didn't stay too long. Howevever, just some quick facts of Royal Albert Hall. The hall was originally to have been called the Central Hall of Arts and Sciences, but the name was changed to the Royal Albert Hall of Arts and Sciences by Queen Victoria upon laying the hall's foundation stone in 1867. It was a tribute to the memory of her husband, Prince Albert, who had died six years earlier. Since the hall's opening in 1871, it has hosted the world's leading artists from all performance genres. Over its 153 year history, the hall has also featured people from various fields, including meetings held by the suffragettes, speeches from Winston Churchill and Albert Einstein, fights by Lennox Lewis and exhibition bouts by Mohammad Ali to name a few. 

                                      Upper image: outside view of Royal Albert Hall; lower image: inside view of the hall

Directly from the hall is the Albert Memorial in Kensington Gardens. It was commissioned by Queen Victoria upon the death of her beloved husband Prince Albert. Designed by Sir Geirge Gilbert Scott in the Gothic Revival style, it takes the form of an ornate canopy 176 feet (54 m) tall, over the high altar of a church sheltering a statue of the prince facing south. It took over ten years to complete. The memorial was opened in 1872 by Queen Victoria, with the statue of Albert ceremonially "seated" in 1876. 

After the gardens, we took the Tube back to Trafalgar Square. We did a bit of shopping and had a late lunch/early dinner at Old Shades Pub. While there, we had a few pints and relaxed before meeting our friends for goodbye drinks and cabaret at Cellar Door. We parted ways an hour before midnight and headed back to our Airbnb for some much needed sleep. We had an early flight the next day.

Final thoughts - we added London as a side trip to our Irish adventure, so we didn't plan too well, but were still happy with what we saw and did during our time. Would definitely revisit the UK for a roadtrip from London to Edinburgh and beyond. Perhaps sometime in the future...

Additional photos can be found here.

P.S. since my phone was stolen while we were in Ireland, the photos above are a mix of photos from my DSLR, my partner's phone and sourced images. 

     Over the course of four days, I trekked across the island via Dublin, Glendalough, Kilkenny, the Cliffs of Moher, the Burren and Galway. Here'a quick overview of my experience and suggestions for planning your own Irish getaway. 

Day 1: Dublin 

     I took an overnight flight from JFK to Dublin that arrived around 8 a.m. Thereafter, I took the express bus from the airport to Wellington Quay where I had a quick brunch at Panem Cafe. I highly recommend the custard filled croissant for dessert! With some time to spare before checking into the Airbnb, I headed to Grogan's Pub for a pint (or two) of Guinness. A local pub in the heart of the city, I thoroughly enjoyed the atmosphere created by the locals and tourists alike. And yes, Guinness really does taste best in Ireland! Why? The Guinness factory is right down the road and therefore the freshest you can possibly get. However, be patient when ordering a pint as the pouring and "settling" of the stout will take 2-3 minutes. I cannot tell you how many times I felt the bartender had forgotten my order because it took a while before my pint appeared, only to realize that the stout needed to "settle." Read here about the science behind pouring the perfect pint of Guinness.

     After noon, I checked into my Airbnb. I opted for a spot a few blocks from the city center so everything would be easily accessible. Old Dublin is located south of the River Liffey and most attractions are within 15-30 minutes walk from the river. I took a shower and headed out for quick bite before a walking tour I had scheduled for 5 p.m. I opted for fish & chips at Jaf's on the north side of the river. Since I was a few blocks from the famous O'Connell Street, I headed over to Maadigan's for another pint of Guinness. This was a traditional Irish pub where many locals dined and where you could find some grandpas at the bar who were probably on their second or third pint of Guinness by three in the afternoon. That said, everyone was very friendly, often inquiring to know if I was visiting and how was I liking Dublin. 

     Afterwards, I headed to the Dark Side Dublin tour via Sandemans, which was a 2.5 hour walking tour across the city that explored some stories of serial killers, cannibals and the notorious Hellfire Club. Funny enough, I found the stories to be more "fails" than anything remotely horrific or gruesome. However, it was a good way to visit some church graveyards and back alleys of the city that I probably wouldn't have seen otherwise. By this time, I was pretty tired. On my walk back to the Airbnb, I stopped by the Pilsner's Pub for dinner. I highly recommend the goulash with dumplings!

Day 2: Dublin 

    Even though this was my second day in Dublin, it was going to be my last to explore the city since I had tours booked for countryside over the next two days. As a result, I had a lot planned for this day. I had an early breakfast at Taste Food Company, which consisted of eggs benedict and two rounds of cappuccino. Thereafter, I went on a three hour walking with New Europe Tours that included the sites of Dublin Castle, City Hall, Trinity College, Leinster House (home of the Irish parliament), Christ Church Cathedral and of course the famous Temple Bar area. As it was raining on and off, I didn't snap photos with my DSLR. Instead, I opted for clicks via my phone.

The river Liffey above (south facing) and Temple Bar below.

     The tour ended near Trinity College, so I headed for a quick lunch at O'Neill's Pub & Kitchen. I highly recommend their cottage pie! A few blocks over is the Irish Whiskey Museumm which our tour guide recommended. I secured tickets and truly enjoyed the hour long tour learning the history and the process of distilling whiskey. The tour ended with a sampler of five whiskeys. Luckily I had eaten before the tour, so the whiskey had something to work itself off. 

     After the museum, I strolled along some shops in search of souvenirs and gifts. Before heading to dinner, I stopped by Mulligan's to rest my feet and have a pint of Guinness. Another gem recommended by our tour guide, Mulligan's is an 18th century no-nonsense pub filled with locals and a splash of tourists. It was such a great atmosphere, I treated myself to a second pint. Thereafter, I headed north of the river for dinner at TP Smith's. Unfortunately, during my walk across the bridge, my phone was pickpocketed amidst the crowds. I know this is when it happened, because right after crossing the bridge, the crowds dissipated and I was one block away from the restaurant. When I got to the restaurant, I discovered the phone was gone. This threw a huge wrench in my psyche over the remaining days of vacation. I was most upset that all my vacation information and my amazing Pixel 7 camera was now gone! Luckily, I was not traveling alone and had shared everything with my partner via Google drive. I also had the help of my sister back in NY to help me retrieve necessary info from my home PC.  I cannot begin to imagine the mess I would've been in had I been alone! Truly a horrible way to end the day on the second day of vacation. On the brighter side, I was not harmed and still could continue with vacation as planned (sans my phone). After all this, I lost my appetite, took my dinner home and stuck it in the fridge. 

Day 3: Glendalough & Kilkenny

     Suffice it to say, I didn't sleep well the previous night. I took the necessary steps to secure my stolen phone and tried to ensure I would make it in time for the bus tour that was scheduled to leave at 7:30 a.m. Luckily, our tour guide, Pat from Collins Day Tours, was an absolute gem throughout the day. His personality and wonderful story-telling as we drove to Glendalough and Kilkenny helped to restore my faith in the good of humanity and not dwell on the violation I felt the night before. 

     We arrived at Glendalough around 10 a.m. and were left to explore for another two hours. Gleann Da Loch - means "valley of two lakes" in Irish. Hidden amongst the luscious greenery of the Wicklow Mountains National Park, this picturesque site is one of the crown jewels of Ireland's Ancient East. This glacial valley is renowned for an early Medieval monastic settlement founded in the 6th century by St. Kevin. Currently, the site is mostly ruins of the former settlement. The monuments in the Lower Glen include the Gateway, the Round Tower, the Cathedral and the graveyard.

A short walk along the trail, there are gorgeous views of the higer lake. However, we had mushroom rain around this time. So photo snaps were not the best. 

     After lunch, we continued on to Kilkenny. Located in the south-east region and in the province of Leinster, Kilkenny is nestled between the banks of the River Nore. Now a modern Irish city with a Medieval and Celtin skin, Kilkenny was once the ancient capital of the kingdom of Ossory. The town was established, then a city in 1609 by royal charter via King James I of England. The city boasts the famous Kilkenny Castle which has been extensively restored and is now open to visitors. Upon disembarking the bus, we headed to lunch at Rafter's Gastro Pub. We had fish & chips, a delicious seafood soup and the local beer: Smithwick's. The owner also treated to us to a special sample of the Kilkenny Irish Cream Ale. 

     Immediately after, we headed to explore Kilkenny Castle. A true medieval gem, the castle exteriors have been wonderfully restored. However, the furnishings on the inside were a bit scant and the gallery room was a bit odd (no name displays to discern who we were looking at). 

Day 4: Cliffs of Moher & Galway 

     I was most excited for this day for a few years now. In the morning, my excitement was a bit tempered as I was still missing my phone. However, by the time we arrived at the Cliffs, I was happy that the weather was in our favor and the Cliffs were there for us to take in all their glory. Needing no introduction, but a brief spiel, the Cliffs of Moher are the legendary sea cliffs located at the southwestern edge of the Burren region that most trek to Ireland to experience. Spreading 11 km (9 miles) and rising to a maximum height of 214 m (702 ft), the Cliffs and the Burren are part of the UNESCO Global Geopark. 

We walked along the Burren Way trail that runs along the edges of the cliffs offering fantastic views of Moher, the nearby farmland and the Aran Islands. No puffins spotted, but we did see many crows and seagulls. (Including a seagull who was stomping the ground to encourage worms to surface, thereby ensuring an endless worm buffet). 

View from the southern viewpoint looking at O'Brien's Tower and the sea stack and sea stump.

View from the midpoint looking towards the southern viewpoint walkway.

After almost 2.5 hours of exploring, we had a hot chocolate at the Puffin's cafe before boarding the bus for quick stop at The Burren. Boirinn means "rocky district" in Irish. This region encompasses a karst landscape that measures approximately 530 sq. km (200 sq. mi). This cool grey rock etched with crevices and cracks tumbles down to the Atlantic Ocean that is also known as the Wild Atlantic Causeway. 

     Finally, it was time for a late lunch in Galway. A balmy, bohemian city with a love of traditional music, Galway is home to lots of mellow old pubs and many shops selling Aran sweaters. The fourth most populous city in Ireland, Galway was named the European Region of Gastronomy in 2018. With two hours to venture by ourselves, we tried to get as much done within the main square. The weather wasn't the best by this time, so I didn't get too many snaps. We had a tasty Irish beef stew and delicious clam chowder at Finnegans. Thereafter, we headed to the Christmas market at Eyre Square. Unfortunately, there weren't too many holiday foods to sample. With a few moments to spare, we popped into O'Connell's where we had the local Galway Hooker Ale. As we drank our beef, we had a short, but lovely conversation with a grandpa at the bar. Now retired, he moved from Dublin to Galway when he was 25. He explained that he had grown up in Dublin and spent a few years in London. However, he didn't like the hustle & bustle of a big city and moved to Galway when his friend offered him a job. Since then, he preferred the laid back lifestyle of Galway where he had a reasonable work/life balance and a few pints at the end of each day with his fellow mates. 

We said goodbye to our bar-mate and headed for the bus. After three hours, we were finally back in Dublin. We had the leftovers from TP Smith's for dinner at the Airbnb and packed our bags for our flight the next day to London. Stay tuned for that blog!

Day 0: San Diego

     We left NYC at 6 p.m. and were in San Diego by 9 p.m. (yes, we time traveled). We picked up our rental from the airport and drove to a Super Target for supplies. We bought fresh fruits, water, salted snacks and a cooler to store our munchies. Thereafter, we headed to our hotel in Torrance for some shut eye.

Day 1: L.A. & Sequoias

     The next day, we were pretty rested and ready for the long day ahead. We had breakfast and left the hotel around 9:30 a.m. Our first stop was the Hollywood Star Walk. Comprised of more than 2,600 five-pointed terrazzo and brass stars embedded in the sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard, these stars are a major tourist attraction in L.A. (approximately 10 million visitors per year). 

The TCL Chinese Theatre can also be found on Hollywood Boulevard. This historic movie palace was originally named Grauman's Chinese Theatre. In 2013, the Chinese electronics manufacturer TCL Corporation purchased the facility's naming rights and changed the name to the TCL Chinese Theatre. 

Fun fact: nearly 200 Hollywood celebrity handprints, footprints and autographs are in the concrete of the theatre's forecourt. 

A short drive from Hollywood Boulevard is the Hollywood Sign. An American landmark and cultural icon, this famous sign is situated on Mount Lee in the Hollywood Hills area of the Santa Monica Mountains. "HOLLYWOOD" is spelled out in 45 ft (13.7 m) tall white capital letters and is 353 ft (107.3 m) long. It was originally created in 1923 as an ad for a local real estate development, but due to increasing recognition, the sign remained.

The valley close to the sign is quite beautiful.

     A bit after noon, we began our drive towards Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Park. Surrounded by groves of the world's largest living trees, deep canyons and vast caverns, these two parks are a must see for any traveler.

Established in 1890 to protect 404,064 acres (631 sq. mi.) of forested mountainous terrain, the parks are most notable for their giant sequoia trees. Five of the ten largest trees in the world can be found in the Giant Forest, where the General Sherman tree reigns as the the largest tree on earth. 

We continued our journey along the Generals Highway, occasionally stopping at different points of interest (mostly for photos).

Afterwards, we had dinner and headed for our hotel in Fresno.

Day 2: Yosemite 

     On our second day, we had waffles for breakfast and headed 1.5 hours towards Yosemite National Park. An icon of America's majestic natural beauty with its dramatic waterfalls, giant sequoias, abundant wildlife and awe-inspiring cliffs, Yosemite attracts approximately 4 million visitors each year. 

Encompassing an area of 747,956 acres (1,168 sq. mi), Yosemite was central to the development of the national park idea. Galen Clark and others lobbied to protect Yosemite Valley from development, ultimately leading to President Abraham Lincoln's signing the Yosemite Grant in 1864. Thereafter, John Muir led a successful movement to have Congress establish a larger national park by 1890, one which encompassed the valley and its surrounding mountains and forests, thereby paving the way for what is now the National Park System. 

Notable attractions include:

Viewpoint at Yosemite, CA Tunnel view

Corlieu Falls

Swinging Bridge

Bridal Veil Falls

El Capitan 

Yosemite Falls

Fun fact: Yosemite Falls is the highest waterfall in the park, dropping a total of 2,425 ft (739 m) from the top of the upper fall to the base of the lower fall. 

CA 105, CA View of the mountain road from a lookout point on CA-105.

Before leaving the park, we had dinner and drove 3 hours to sleep in Oakland.

Day 3: San Francisco

     The third day was to be the longest. We had a very early breakfast and were out the hotel by 7:45 a.m. We had tickets for the Classic Cable Car tour of San Francisco with Hornblower for 9 a.m. We were a bit late, but I called ahead and asked the tour guide to wait for us. They did, and we wound up having the second cable car to ourselves! 

     San Francisco (Spanish for Saint Francis) is the cultural, commercial and financial hub of Northern California. The 13th most populous city in the U.S.A., San Francisco was originally founded on June 29, 1776 when colonists from Spain established Presidio of San Francisco at the Golden Gate and Mission San Francisco de Asis. The gold rush of 1849 brought rapid growth, making it the largest city on the West Coast at the time. In 1856, it became consolidated as a city-county.

Along our tour, we visited the following:

San Francisco City Hall

Painted Ladies, SF The Painted Ladies

Mrs. Doubtfire's House

Palace of Fine Arts, SF Palace of Fine Arts

Fun fact: Scenes from The Rock and My Name is Khan were filmed at the Palace of Fine Arts.

The most famous of all the San Francisco landmarks is no doubt, the Golden Gate Bridge. Connecting San Francisco to California's northern counties, the tremendous 746 ft (227 m) tall towers with a strait spanning 1.6 km (1 m) held together by its sweeping main cables in its signature orange vermillion color is truly a marvel of modern engineering. 

GGB, SF Side note: there was no fog on the day we visited San Francisco, However, we still felt the full effects of "fogust" as it was quite cold compared to the heat from L.A. and the parks.

Our tour ended a bit after noon, and we had lunch on the pier at Fisherman's Wharf.

      After lunch, we drove over the Golden Gate Bridge to Muir Woods. Located 12 miles north of San Francisco on Mount Tamalpais near the Pacific Coast, Muir Woods is part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. The park protects 554 acres (almost 1 sq. mi) of old growth coast redwood forests. The forest is regularly shrouded in a coastal marine layer of fog, thereby making it a wet environment that encourages vigorous plant growth. 

Muir Woods, CA The park is also home to various species of wildlife. We were lucky to see fox cubs.

We ended the day with a 4.5 hour drive to our hotel in Eureka. 

Day 4: Northern Californian Coast

     The fourth day was solely dedicated to driving from Eureka, CA to Newport, OR - a total of 6.5 hours. Naturally, we made some stops along the way to explore and snap photos. 

Before leaving Eureka, we drove by the Carson Mansion. Constructed in 1884-1885, this large Victorian house  is three stories high with 18 bedrooms, a tower and basement. The house is considered the most grand Victorian home in America. Originally the home of William Carson (one of Northern California's first major lumber barons), it has been a private club since 1950. Unfortunately, the house and grounds are not open for tours. 

Thereafter, we drove to Trinidad State Beach. Located 20 miles north of Eureka off Highway 101, the beach is a secluded cove near the town of Trinidad. The offshore rocks are part of the California Coastal National Monument. We spent 30 minutes walking around and dipping our feet in the cold Pacific waters. 

A short drive north of Trinidad State Beach are the Redwood National and State Parks. These parks protect 45% of all remaining coast redwood old-growth forests, totaling 38,982 acres (157.75 sq km). These trees are the tallest and one of the most massive tree species on earth.

The park is also home to several indigenous grassland prairies, flora and fauna.

A short drive north along the Redwood Highway is False Klamath, which offers spectacular views of the coastline.

An hour north of the parks is Crescent City. Named for the crescent-shaped stretch of sandy beach south of the city, Crescent City has a total population of a little over 8,000. Due to the richness of the local Pacific Ocean waters and the related catch, and ease of access, Crescent City Harbor serves as a home port for numerous commercial fishing vessels. 

Side note: Crescent City's offshore geography makes it unusually susceptible to tsunamis. Major damage to the city occurred in 1984 by the Good Friday earthquake off Anchorage, Alaska and the March 11, 2011 earthquake off Sendai, Japan.

Upon entering Oregon, the roads were covered in fog which made our drive a bit difficult.

We wound up getting to Newport after 10 p.m. We stopped by Snug Harbor Bar & Grill to grab some food and headed to our hotel in Siletz Bay. Turns out, the bar sold some of the best clam chowder I've ever had!

Day 5: Beaches & Waterfalls in Oregon

     Finally, we were in Oregon and ready for some waterfalls! We left our hotel around 8:30 a.m. and headed for Cannon Beach. An affluent tourist resort destination, this beach is known as a weekend getaway spot for Portlanders. Cannon Beach is recognized by its well-known landmark, Haystack Rock. This igneous rock has an elevation of 235 ft (72 m) and is often accessible at low tide. The rock is also a protected marine sanctuary, where events are prohibited within 100 ft (30 m) on either side of the rock. Near the Rock are the Needles, two tall rocks rising out of the water. 

Haystack Rock, OR Two hours east of Cannon Beach is Columbia River Gorge. Up to 4,000 ft (1,200 m) deep, the canyon stretches over 80 miles (130 km). This scenic area protects the spectacular canyon where the Columbia River cuts through the Cascade mountains - with cliffs and overlooks of Washington to the north and Oregon's mountains and waterfalls to the south. The gorge is unique in its natural and cultural history, as well as its designation as a National Scenic Area. It is also a vital transportation and communication corridor where trains, barges and highways support interstate commerce, and natural forces generate wind and hydrologic power.

Dozens of awe-inspiring waterfalls spill from basalt cliffs, lining the Historic Columbia River Highway, including the famous Multnomah, Bridal Veil and Latourell Falls. 

Multnomah Falls, OR Multnomah Falls

Bridal Veil Falls

Latourell Falls

Ponytail Falls

View from behind Ponytail Falls

     A short distance away is Mount Hood. Mt. Hood's perpetually snowy peak - crowned by twelve glaciers (one for every thousand feet it rises above sea level),can be seen from miles away. It's peak is also the highest point in Oregon and the fourth highest in the Cascade Range. 

Fun fact: Mt. Hood is considered the Oregon volcano most likely to erupt and is characterized as "potentially active," although it's been dormant for a long time. 

We ended the day a bit early and drove to Portland for dinner. We sampled doughnuts from Voodoo Doughnuts and had a tasty spread at Joe's Famous Crawfish.

Thereafter, we drove over the I-5 bridge connecting Portland, OR to Vancouver, WA. We clocked in at 10:00 p.m. (our earliest night on the trip).

Day 6: Mt. Rainier & Seattle

     On the sixth day, we left at 8:30 a.m. on a two hour drive from Vancouver to Mt. Rainier National Park. Ascending 14,410 ft (4,392 m) above sea level, Mt. Rainier stands as a icon in the Washington landscape. An active volcano, Mt. Rainier is the most glaciated peak in the contiguous U.S.A., spawning five major rivers. 

We entered the park via the Nisqually Entrance Historic District and were given an extensive brochure by the park rangers on how to protect ourselves from bears. We drove along Paradise Road with stops at:

Cougar Rock

Ricksecker Point

Narada Falls

Reflection Lake

Side note: the lake was completely frozen, even in June! Hence, no reflection :(

We stopped for souvenirs at the Henry Jackson Visitor Center, where we bought postcards and a teddy.  Our way down the mountain road, we came across a black bear cub (more like a toddler?). We snapped some photos while staying in the car, knowing that mommy bear was probably close by.

We left a bit after noon for our two drive from the park to Seattle. 

     A seaport city, Seattle has an estimated 730,000 residents and is the largest city in both Washington State and the Pacific Northwest region. Situated between the Puget Sound and Lake Washington, about a 100 miles (160 km) south of the Canada-U.S. border, Seattle is a major gateway for trade with Asia and is the fourth largest port in North America. 

Our first stop was Pike Place Market. This public market opened in 1907 and is one of the country's oldest farmers market. A place of business for many small farmers, craftspeople and merchants, the market is named after the central street, Pike Place. The market is Seattle's most popular tourist destination, with over 10 million visitors annually, and is the 33rd most visited tourist attraction in the world. 

After the market, we passed by the Seattle Gum Wall. Located in an alleyway in Post Alley under Pike Place Market, the gum wall is a brick wall covered in thousands of used chewing gum dating back to the early 1990s. Parts of the wall are covered several inches thick!

Fun facts: the wall was only cleared off once, it's 50 ft long and features many gummy designs.

Finally, it was time to make our way over to the Space Needle. We had sunset tickets. One of the most recognizable landmarks in the world and a treasured Seattle icon, the Space Needle was built for the 1962 World's Fair - "The Age of Space" exposition. At 605 ft (184 m) tall and 8,660 tonnes, it is one of the most photographed structures in the world. It was built to withstand winds of up to 200 mph (320 km/h) and earthquakes of up to 9.0 magnitude. The tower's saucer shaped "top house" offers visitors Seattle's only 360-degree indoor and outdoor panoramic views of downtown Seattle, Mt. Rainier, the Puget Sound, along with the Cascades and Olympic mountain ranges.

Fun fact: the Space Needle is the tallest structure west of the Mississippi River. 

We ended the day with a beautiful, albeit chilly sunset on the observation deck of the tower.

Thereafter, we headed for our hotel in Lacey, W.A.

Day 7: Olympic National Park

     On our last day, we explored Olympic National Park. With its incredible range of precipitation and elevation, diversity is the hallmark of this park. Encompassing nearly a million acres (1562.5 sq. mi), the park protects a vast wilderness and several distinctly different ecosystems, including glacier-capped mountains, old-growth temperate rain forests, and over 70 miles of wild coastline. 

Most of the roads in the park were closed due to melting snow which caused us to detour quite a few times. The main highlight was the Hoh Rainforest Throughout the winter season, rain frequently falls in the Hoh Rainforest, contributing to a yearly total of 12 to 14 ft of precipitation each year. The result is a lush, green canopy of both coniferous and deciduous species, making it one of the largest temperate rainforests in the U.S.A.

     We left a bit early as it was a 4 hour drive from the rainforest to the airport. We got caught in a bit of traffic in Tacoma, WA, but we were still able to catch our overnight flight back to NYC. We were home by 9 a.m. on Sunday. It was a definitely an intense itinerary, but we managed to visit every place on our list. Quite the accomplishment indeed! We walked over 25,000 steps each day and wound up with quite the stash of postcards.

     I'm very excited for the next cross-country trip. Not sure when that'll be, but I'm sure that itinerary will be less hectic than this was :) Additional photos can be viewed here.

     We arrived in Helsinki at 8 a.m and bought a day pass to ride the tram from the ferry terminal into the city. With 57 million annual passengers and 11 lines spanning the city, the trams are Helsinki's preferred form of transportation and must-try element while visiting the Finnish capital. I should also add, the trams are quite cozy inside.

     Our first stop was the Senate Square. The square and its surroundings make up the oldest part of central Helsinki and form a uniquely cohesive example of Neoclassical architecture. The square is dominated by four buildings designed by Carl Ludvig Engel (1778-1840): Helsinki Cathedral, the Government Palace, the main building of the University of Helsinki and the National Library of Finland. A statute of Alexander II stands in the middle of the square. Helsinki Cathedral is arguably Finland's most famous and photographed building. Originally built from 1830-1852 as a tribute to the Grand Duke of Finland, Tsar Nicholas I of Russia, it was known as St. Nicholas' Church until Finland's independence in 1917.

Helsinki Cathedral

View from the Cathedral

     A few blocks southeast of the Square is Uspenski Cathedral. Completed in 1868 in the Katajanokka district of Helsinki, the Uspenski Cathedral is largest orthodox church in Western Europe. With its golden cupolas and redbrick facade, the church is one the clearest symbols of the Russian impact on Finnish history. There are 13 onion-like domes, representative of Christ and his 12 disciples. 

Nearby the Cathedral is a marina connected by a bridge laden with love locks.

     South of Uspenski is The Old Market Hall, which has been serving Helsinki customers since 1889. Designed by Finnish architect Gunnar Nystrom, it is strategically located just next to the Helsinki Market Square, close by the sea. Very popular with tourists, the market offers a bit of everything: breads, cheeses, meats, pastries and beer!

     West of The Old Market Hall is Pohjoisesplanadi, dubbed "the chicest street in Helsinki" due to all the fanciful shops. We stopped by the Akateeminen Kirjakauppa (Academic Bookstore) to browse for souvenirs. 

Center of the Esplanade

Main shopping center

Interior of the bookstore

     North of the shopping center is Helsinki's Central Station. As the main station for commuter rail and long-distance trains departing from Helsinki, the station is used by approximately 400,000 per day, of which 200,000 are passengers. Designed by Eliel Saarinen and inaugurated in 1919, Helsinki Central was chosen as one of the world's most beautiful railway stations by BBC in 2013.

We had some delicious currywurst from a small shop inside the train station. 

     On our way to visit the underground church, we stopped by Santa's Souvenir Shop. As the home country of Santa Claus, you can find a year-round Christmas shops all across Helsinki. I was more interested in the clay-fired candle houses at Annensoppi. 

     After shopping, we headed to Temppeliaukio Rock Church. Excavated directly into solid rock, the church is situated in the heart of Helsinki, at the end of Fredrikinkatu. Designed by architect brothers Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen, the church was completed in 1969. It is one of the city's main attractions because of its special architecture. The church hall is covered with a dome, lined with copper, and supported on the rock walls by reinforced concrete beams.

Apart from the stunning architecture, the church has also an organ with 43 stops and 3001 pipes. Due to it's underground position, the church has great acoustics and is a popular venue for concerts. 

     Thereafter, we took a 20 minute walk to Sibelius Monument. This world famous monument by Eila Hiltunen is dedicated to the Finnish composer Jean Sibelius (1865-1957). Unveiled in 1967, the monument resembles organ pipes and is made of welded steel with over 600 pipes in a wave-like pattern. A smaller version of the monument is located at the UNESCO headquarters in Paris. A similar work by Hiltunen is located at the grounds of United Nations in New York City.

     We ended the day at Cafe Regatta. An outdoor cafe with a small, red cottage by the sea in Toolo with a vintage countryside interior and decorations, this cafe is the definition of cozy! I highly recommend the hot chocolate and blueberry cake.

I also suggest grilling some sausages by the open fire in the front yard.

     Finally, we made our way to the closest tram and headed back to the ferry terminal. By 9 p.m, we were back in Tallinn. We had walked over 35,000 steps in 40 degree rainy weather, but it was definitely worth the 12 hours! 

More photos can be viewed here.

     A 3 hour drive from NYC to Newport, we arrived a bit after 10 a.m, just as everything began to come alive in the city. We had purchased a 5 house ticket, which included access to the Green Animals Topiary Garden. Nestled in scenic Portsmouth, the garden is the oldest and most northern topiary garden in the U.S. Today, there are more than 80 pieces of topiary throughout the gardens, from an array of animals to ornamental designs and geometric figures. The manicured grounds also include flowerbeds, fruits trees and a vegetable garden. 

     Thereafter, we headed over to Ochre Point to begin our tour of the mansions. The first was The Breakers. Built in 1893 as a summer home of Cornelius Vanderbilt II in Italian Renaissance architecture, the building became a National Historic Landmark in 1994. The 70 room mansion covers one acre of the 14 acres estate on the cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and is the largest of the Newport mansions. Designed by Richard Morris Hunt, the mansion was made fireproof as possible via steel trusses and no wooden parts, with the boiler located in an underground space below the front lawn. The largest and most opulent house in Newport, The Breakers' interiors are truly breathtaking. Unfortunately, indoor photography was not allowed. Here are some shots from outdoors.

     Next, we headed to The Elms, the "summer cottage" of coal baron - Edward Berwind.  Fashioned from Chateau d'Asnieres, The Elms was designed by Horace Trumbauer. Completed in 1901, the exteriors were constructed with a steel frame with brick partitions and a limestone facade while the interiors and furnishings were designed by Allard and Sons of Paris. It was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1996.

     A short walk over, we explored Marble House, the gilded age summer residence of Alva and William Vanderbilt. Inspired by the Petit Trianon at the Palace of Versailles, the mansion was designed by Richard Morris Hunt, and was built between 1888 and 1892 at a cost of $11 million. Upon its completion, it became the social landmark that helped spark the transformation of Newport from a relatively relaxed summer colony of wooden houses to the now legendary resort of opulent stone palaces. The mansion was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2006. 

     A few blocks over is the Rosecliff. Commissioned by silver heiress, Theresa Fair Oelrichs, the residence was designed by McKim Mead and White and was completed in 1902. Modeled after the Grand Trianon of Versailles, the summer home was specifically designed for entertaining on a grand scale with the largest Newport ballroom at 40x80 feet. The ballroom has been featured in several films, including True Lies and the 1974 version of The Great Gatsby. Unfortunately, the house was closed to visitors due to preparations being conducted for the floral show.

     We skipped the remaining houses for a walk along the shoreline via Newport's enchanting 3.5 mile cliff walk. The scenic walk was beautifully serene with panoramic ocean views of crashing waves and the touch of cool sea breeze. 

     We finished the day with a lavish seafood dinner at the Red Parrot.

Additional photos can be view here.

Day 1: Reykjavik 

      We flew overnight from JFK to Reykjavik. The flight landed 30 minutes ahead of time. By 7:45 a.m., we had cleared customs, gotten our bags and picked up our car. By 8:45 a.m, we were in Reykjavik. We parked the car and headed over to Landsbankinn to exchange currency so we'd have some Icelandic Krona if the need for paper bills arose. We stopped by a few Puffin and Polar Bear gift shops. 

We had an amazing breakfast at 101 Reykjavik Street Food consisting of golden-fried fish and chips and the most delicious lobster bisque that Reykjavik has to offer. We were the first customers of the day as the owner had just opened his doors at 11:00 a.m. We chatted a bit and laughed about us looking like hungry tourists who just got off a plane (that's exactly what we were!). 

      Thereafter, we walked along Skolavordustigur towards Hallgrimskirkja. A Lutheran Church, it is the largest church in Iceland at 74.5 metres (244 ft) high and among the tallest structures in the country. Inspired by the sea stacks at Reynisfjara, the church took 41 years to build. A lift can be taken to the top of the tower for panoramic views of the city. Unfortunately, it was closed for renovation while we were there.

Interesting fact: the concert organ is the largest in the country. It was constructed by Johannes Klais Organworks in Bonn, Germany and has four manuals, a pedal, 72 stops and 5275 pipes. It is 15 metres (49 feet) high and weighs 25 tones.

We continued down Frakkastigur, where we stopped at Valdis for ice-cream. The strawberry cone was pretty tasty!

Here are some additional snaps from around town.

      Afterwards, we headed to Laekjartorg to meet with some other tourists for a 1.5 hour free walking tour via Follow Me. We stopped by the Sun Voyager, the Icelandic Court of Justice, Parliament House, the National Theatre of Iceland, among many other notable places.

      Being major foodies, we stopped by the Seabaron and Vagninn Fish & Chips for some munchies after the tour. The fish kebab and lobster bisque from the Seabaron were quite tasty. However, the Vagninn Fish & Chips was a bit of a disappointment. Both lacked seasoning and crispiness! 

      Our last food stop was at Hlemmur Matholl (Reykjavik's Food Hall). It was smaller than what I expected, but still offered some tasty bites. We got Vietnamese spring rolls and a sandwich.

      Before leaving Reykjavik, we drove to Grotta Lighthouse. It was low-tide, so we walked over the sand to the lighthouse, instead of trying to balance on the huge rocks that formed a pathway from the mainland to the lighthouse. It began to drizzle, so we kept our visit short. 

      We ended the day with an hour drive to our Airbnb in Hestfjall. It was a lovely location between Selfoss and Hella. We ended the night in a hot tub waiting for a glimpse of the Northern Lights. Unfortunately, we were not lucky to see it. 

Day 2: South Iceland

      We began the day with a light breakfast at our Airbnb. On our drive out, we stopped to take photos of some very model-like horses. They seemed to have been waiting for their photo-op.

      Our first stop along Porsmerkurvegur Road was Seljalandfoss. One of Iceland's best known waterfalls, Seljalandfoss is 65 metres (213 feet) tall and has its origins underneath the glacier Eyjafjallajokull (the volcano beneath this ice cap last erupted in 2010 and caused havoc at airports across Europe). There is a path that leads you behind the waterfall with cliffs that create a wide cavern. It is breathtakingly beautiful. However, be prepared to be soaked! 

      A short walk from Seljalandfoss is Gljufrabui, also known as Canyon Dweller. It's a hidden waterfalls behind a small opening in a considerable cliff in Hamragardar. At 40 metres (131 feet) high, the falls is fed by the river Gljufura. 

After drying our coats, we got back into the car and headed to Rutshellir Cave. 

One of several man-made caves, the main cave is arched and at least 20 metres (66 feet) long and 2.5 metres (8 feet)  high. It was used for storing hay and livestock.

Here's a look at the entrance and the inside.

      We continued on to Skogafoss. At a drop of 62 metres (204 feet) with a width of 25 metres (82 feet), Skogafoss is one of the biggest waterfalls in Iceland. Due to the high amount of mist/spray from this thundering beauty, a rainbow (sometimes double rainbow) appears every few seconds! 

Fun fact: parts of Gerua were filmed here. This picturesque song was a tad-bit difficult to film. See behind the scenes here.

This snap was taken at water level.

The waterfall and south Iceland's coastline can also be viewed from above, albeit after climbing 527 stairs.

      Finally, it was time to make our way over to Solheimasandur (the abandoned plane wreck site). This was a particularly difficult visit as it takes approximately 60+ minutes one way to the plane, while facing some 30 mph winds! Surprisingly, we did it in 48 minutes, after a lot of eye-wiping from teary eyes due to the intense winds.

Regarding the wreck, in 1973 a U.S. Navy DC plane ran out of fuel and was forced to crash land on the black beach at Solheimasandur. Fortunately, everyone survived. Allegedly, the pilot had simply switched over to the wrong fuel tank. The remains of the plane are still on the sand near the sea, and is absolutely picturesque against the black sand. It's very surreal-looking, almost appearing to be from another planet. 

      Approximately 30 minutes drive west of the plane wreckage is Dyrholaey Peninsula. The top of the peninsula offers breathtaking views in all directions. To the north, there is the Myrdalsjokull glacier, to the east there is the stunning black lava seastacks of Reynisdranger, and to the west lies the endless black sand coastline. 

In the south (the front of the peninsula), there is a huge black arch of lava reaching out into the sea, from which the area gets its name. Dyrholaey translates to "the hill island with the door hole." 

Here's a shot of our car from the top of the peninsula.

      At this point, we were famished. We drove to Vik and had an early dinner at Halldorskfaffi.

Icelandic cod, with wedge cut potatoes and salad.

The food was delicious and we were moments away from Reynisdranger View where puffins were nesting.

Though we saw the puffins, it was quite difficult to get a photo of them (they're pretty tiny). Luckily, a well-equipped photographer with an extraordinary telephoto lens had just finished shooting some of the birds. He was kind enough to show us some of the shots he captured. 

      Our last stop was Reynisfjara Beach. The sun was setting and most of the light had disappeared behind the cliffs. This world-famous black sand beach is just beside the small fishing village of Vik i Myrdal. With its enormous basalt stacks, stunning panoramas and roaring Atlantic waves, Reynisfjara is widely considered to be the most pristine example of Iceland's black sand beaches.

The reason for the sand at Reynisfjara being black is that it is formed from heavily eroded volcanic rocks (or extrusive igneous rocks), which are black (or obsidian) to begin with as they have been formed from cooled lava which turns black as it cools and hardens. The most well known volcanic rock found in Iceland is basalt (there are at least 25 different types on the island). 

Interesting fact: accordingly to local Icelandic folklore, the large basalt columns were once trolls trying to pull ships from the ocean to shore. However, they were dim and went out too late in the night, as dawn broke, the trolls were turned into solid stone. Another legend includes a husband whose wife was kidnapped and killed by two trolls. The man followed the trolls down to the beach where he froze them, ensuring that they would never kill again. I guess you can say the Icelanders really love their troll stories.

Our car against the black sand.

      We drove 1.5 hours from Vik to Fluoir, where we again soaked in a hot tub at our Airbnb waiting for the aurora borealis. Unfortunately, no luck.

Day 3: Pingvellir National Park

      On our final day, we drove along Laugarvatnsvegur Road towards Pingvellir National Park (anglicised as Thingvellir). Our first stop was Skalholt.  

One of Iceland's most historic places, Skalholtskirkja was an espiscopal see, a school, a seat of learning and administration for more than 700 years. The present Cathedral was consecrated in 1963 and is renowned for its Summer Musical Festival. 

      Our next stop was Faxi waterfall.  Here's a view of the road from the car.

Fed by the Tungufljot River, Faxi falls is often described as a smaller version of Gulfoss, but not as powerful. 

      Finally, we headed to the crown jewel of the Golden Circle Road drive - Gulfoss. Translated to "Golden Falls," it's one of Iceland's most iconic and beloved waterfalls found in the Hvita river canyon in south-west Iceland. The water travels from the Langjokull glacier before cascading 32 metres (105 feet) down Gulfoss' two stages in a dramatic display of nature's raw power. 

Side note: trying to get a cute self-portrait can be quite difficult amidst the spray and high winds.

      Another marvel along our drive was Strokkur Geysir. Found in the Geysir Geothermal Area, Strokkur erupts approximately every 20 minutes with blasting water to heights of around 15 to 20 metres  (50 to 65 feet) high. Active geyers like Strokkur are very rare around the world because many conditions must be met for them to form. Thus, they are only found in certain parts of highly geothermal areas. The first condition necessary is that an intense heat source, magma, must be close enough to the surface of the earth for the rocks to be hot enough to boil water. Secondly, a source of flowing underground water is needed. Finally, to facilitate the burst, a complex plumbing system that allows the geyser to erupt. Above the intense heat source, there must be space for the flowing water to gather like a reservoir. From this basin, there must be a vent to the surface. This vent must be lined with silica so that the boiling, rising water cannot escape before the eruption. Quite complex indeed!

      Thereafter, we visited Efstidalur II for some farm to table ice cream. The quaint ice cream bar has windows looking into the dairy barn. You can also visit the animals.

Side note, this dog greeted all guests at the door. 

      We continued to Laugarvatnshellir Cave for a tour with the "Cave People." The Cave of Laugarvatn is the only cave in Iceland where people actually lived (two families actually, you can read about their stories here).

We paid for a short tour and story-telling by a friendly gentleman who was dressed in his best tweeds. 

      Afterwards, we headed to Oxarafoss. Known as the waterfall in the Ax River, Oxarafoss is nestled inside Almannagja in the Mid-Atlantic Ridge.  Interestingly, the waterfall is actually human-made. Geologists and historians have discovered that the river Oxara was moved hundreds of years ago to channel the water for the members and visitors of the Icelandic Parliament Althingi in the 9th century. 

We were running short on time, so we briefly toured Logberg and Drekkingarhylur. 

      We left the park around 6:30 p.m. to make it in time for our 7:30 p.m. reservation at A. Hansen. We figured we'd end the trip with a proper sit-down dinner consisting of homey Icelandic dishes. We were more than satisfied with the hearty lobster bisque, lamb fillet and pork ribs. Would definitely recommend!

      We ended the day at our Airbnb in Hafnarfjordur, 30 minutes away from Keflavik. We clocked in early, as our flight was 8:30 a.m. the next day and we needed to be at the airport by 6 a.m. to return the car and check in. Our flight left on time and we were back in New York by 10:30 a.m (EST).

      It was a wonderful, albeit a bit hectic/overwhelming trip. Checked off most of the things on the itinerary, but of course, there's a whole other half of the island we didn't visit. As such, a second trip is definitely in order to see the icebergs, glaciers and whales!

       I spent 5 days touring and photographing various points of interest in Tallinn, Tartu and Haapsalu. 

Day 1 - Tallinn

       Tallinn, Estonia's capital and largest city, is situated on the northern coast of the country along the shore of the Gulf of Finland. First established in the early medieval era, modern day Tallinn is a balanced mix of old and new. Something out of a fairytale book, Tallinn is littered with colorful gabled houses and medieval buildings that line the cobblestoned streets with guard towers along the enclosed city walls. Often dubbed the Silicon Valley of Europe, Tallinn has the highest number of startups per person in Europe and is the birthplace of many international companies, including Skype.

       Old Town, the city's historic centre, is one the best preserved medieval cities in Europe and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997. In the days of the Hanseatic trade league, Old Town was divided into Lower Town and Toompea Hill. Lower Town housed the merchants and churches, while Toompea was and still is the country's administrative center. Nestled in the center is Town Hall Square. Used as a marketplace and meeting point for many centuries, the square is now a hub of activity with quaint outdoor cafes, cozy restaurants and whimsical shops. 
Town Hall Square

Tallinn's cobblestoned streets 

       Commanding attention in the center of Old Town is the towering Town Hall (Raekoda) that has dominated the square since its completion in 1404. Considered Scandinavia and Baltic countries' "oldest surviving town hall," it currently functions as a museum and occasional concert venue. 

Town Hall

       Perhaps the brightest looking government building I've ever seen, Toompea Castle was built during the 18th century and is home to the Estonian Parliament (Riigikogu). The current structure was erected on the foundations of the crumbling eastern wing of the fortress that was a stronghold for the city in the 13th and 14th centuries. 

       Nestled within the walls of Tallinn is Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. An orthodox church built in typical Russian Revival style, the cathedral is dedicated to Saint Alexander Nevsky who won the Battle of Ice in 1242. The cathedral is richly decorated with onion-like domes and eleven bells that were cast in St. Petersburg. The largest bell weighs 16 tons! 

       A few blocks from Old Town is Kassikohvik Nurri (Nurri Cat Cafe). A cozy cafe with delightful dishes and adorable furries, this cat cafe is must visit! I had a great time playing with and photographing the cats who are a mix of playful youngsters to suspicious adults. Oh, and you can also adopt a cat!

Nurri Cat Cafe

I ended the day at Patkuli viewing area, a wonderful spot that captures the beauty of lower town from above the hill. The red roofs and church spires are as picturesque as postcards suggest. 

Day 2 - Kadriorg Palace & Harju County

       East of Tallinn is Kadriorg Palace. Considered the grandest example of palace and park design in Estonian architectural history, the place was originally built as an imperial summer residence for Tsarina Catherine I. Complete with a garden, fountains, hedges and flowerbeds, the palace was modeled after Versailles according to the wishes of Peter the Great, Catherine's husband. Currently, the palace houses the Kadriorg Art Museum.

       Thereafter, I traveled further east to Harju County to explore Lahemaa National Park. En route to the bog, I stopped by Jagala Waterfall, the highest natural waterfall in Estonia at 8 metres tall. Located on the lower course of the Jagala River, approximately 4 km before the river flows into the Gulf of Finland, the waterfall is quite wide at 50 metres. 

       After a few quick snaps, I continued east to Viru Bog. For those who don't know what a bog is (myself included, before this trip), a bog or mire/quagmire/muskeg is a wetland that accumulates peat - a deposit of dead plant material. Frequently covered in shrubs rooted in moss and peat, the gradual accumulation of decayed plant material functions as a carbon sink. Bogs often occur where water at the ground surface is acidic and low in nutrients. Water within and flowing out of the bog is characteristically reddish-brown. a result of the dissolved peat tannins. Viru bog is one of the most accessible bogs in Estonia with a 3.6 km wooden trail throughout the bog.

Aerial view of Viru Bog from a lookout point

Bog and wooden trail Tannins from the dissolved peat

       Approximately 30 km north of Viru Bog is Juminda Tuletorn (Juminda Lighthouse). Built in 1937, it is a circular concrete tower with a lantern and double gallery. The upper portion is painted red, while the lower tower is painted white. The lighthouse has consecutive bursts of bright light every 15 seconds and can be seen from 15 nautical miles.

The area surrounding the lighthouse is littered with several species of mushrooms. Not sure which were edible and which were not.

Day 3 - Tartu 

       Tartu, the country's second largest city, is considered the intellectual centre of the country, hence the nickname "university city." It is home to the University of Tartu, the nation's oldest and most renowned university established since 1632. The Supreme Court, National Museum and the Ministry of Education and Research are also located within this major hub. The most memorable buildings were Tartu Cathedral and the Town Hall. 

Tartu Square

University of Tartu

       Tartu Cathedral is a former Catholic church located on Toomemagi (cathedral hill). Badly damaged by Protestant iconoclasts, the cathedral fell into decay and is now an imposing ruin overlooking the lower town. 

Tartu Cathedral

Domes of the cathedral

Toomemagi, the surrounding hill and area, was landscaped as a park in the 19th century. It's picture perfect during autumn. 

       Within the park are Angel's and Devil's bridges. Angel's Bridge (Inglisild) is not named after an angel, but rather due to confusion in translation. It's said the bridge was named after an English garden - in Estonian, the word for English (inglise) is similar to the word angel (ingel). However, no English garden was ever planted on the hill. More than likely, the bridge was named in to contrast to the nearby Devil's Bridge. The multi-pillared wood bridge links two knolls of Toome Hill.

       Devil's Bridge (Kuradisild) is robust concrete arch constructed in 1913 to celebrate the 300th anniversary of the Romanov Dynasty. The name is borrowed from the bridge's construction supervisor, a German named Werner Maximillian Friedrich Zoege von Manteuffel, whose last name roughly translates to "man-devil".

       The Town Hall is the seat of Tartu's government. Located in Town Hall Square in the city centre, it was built in an early Neoclassical style with Rococo and Baroque details. The hall shares many stylistic similarities with the older town hall of Narva. 

Directly infront of the town hall is the Kissing Students sculpture and fountain. One the most recognized symbols of Tartu, the fountain has remained in the same place since 1948 where newlyweds and their guests would visit it for luck.

Day 4 - Haapsalu

       Two hours west of Tallinn is Haapsalu, a resort town, once a favorite summer spot of Russian Tsars. I visited Haapsalu Railway Station, a wooden station operational since 1904. The station once served passenger and cargo trains on a daily basis. However, as of 2014, most of the track has been removed with the former rail bed now used as a bicycle path. 

Railway Museum

Railway Platform

       A quick car ride away is Haapsalu Bishop's Castle. Once the residence of the medieval Prince-Bishops, the castle was founded in mid-13th century and remained in use until the end of the 17th century. Accordingly to legends, during full moons in August, an image of a maiden, The White Lady, appears on the inner wall of the chapel. The story goes that a canon fell in love with an Estonian girl, who he secretly brought into the castle. She hid by disguising as a choirboy and remained a secret for a long time. Eventually, she was discovered and the Bishop's council decided that the girl should be immured in the wall of the chapel and the canon was to be put in prison where he was starved to death. Placed within the wall, the girl's cries were heard for sometime. Some believe that she grieved not for herself, but for her beloved. 

Haapsalu Castle 

Castle Towers

Day 5 - Tallinn  

       Tallinn was once Europe's greatest fortified city and still houses a vast range of defense towers and historic gates that collectively make up the Walls of Tallinn, a World Heritage Site. The first wall was constructed in 1265 at approximately 16 feet high and 4.9 ft thick at its base. Since then, the wall was significantly enlarged and strengthened. A portion of the Wall connecting Nunna, Sauna and Kuldjala towers can be visited.

       Located on Toompea Hill, between the city wall and lower Tallinn, is the Danish King's Garden. Legend has it that this is the spot where a flag descended from the sky during the Danish invasion and turned the course of the battle in favor of King Valdemar II. The flag later became the national flag of Denmark. The garden is picturesque with flowers, trees, benches and spectacular views to the lower town, a medieval wall and two fortification towers. 

       St. Olaf's Church tower is the tallest spire in Old Town. Once the tallest building in the world from 1549 to 1625, the steeple's 159 metres spire served as a signpost for approaching ships. Dedicated to King Olaf II of Norway (also known as Saint Olaf), the church was once the centre for the city's Scandinavian community before Denmark conquered Tallinn in 1219. During the summer, visitors can climb 232 steps leading to the observation at the 124 metres tower platform for fantastic 360 degree views of Tallinn and the Gulf of Finland.

Lower towers of St. Olaf's

St. Olaf's Church (the observation deck is the square around the tower)

       Our first stop was Eastern State Penitentiary, a radical 19th century prison designed to create social change. Located in the Fairmount section of the city, the penitentiary remains one of the most famous prisons in the world, with its most memorable inmate being the legendary gangster Al Capone. With it's distinctive "wagon-wheel" floor plan, Eastern State set the standard for penal reform with its soaring castle-like Gothic architecture and its founders' Quaker-inspired belief that solitary confinement could help reform criminals. Interestingly, the 11-acre site had central heat, running water and flush toilets before the White House did! Some scenes from The Shawshank Redemption were also filmed here. The prison opened in 1829 and remained operational until 1971. It now operates as a museum and historic site where guided tours are offered year-round. We spent 2-3 hours exploring the prison and the surrounding grounds.

Prison miniature 

Prison cell blocks

Prison yard

       Thereafter, we headed over to Independence Hall between Center City and Old City. The hall is the building where both the U.S. Declaration of Independence and the U.S. Constitution were debated and subsequently adopted. It is now the centerpiece of the Independence National Historical Park in Philadelphia and is pictured on the back of the U.S. $100 bill

Independence Hall 

       Once housed in the steeple of the hall was the Liberty Bell, an iconic symbol of American independence. The bell is now located in the Liberty Bell Center within the Historical Park, across from Independence Hall. The notable crack on the bell remains somewhat of a mystery. However, the most likely explanation is that a narrow split developed in the early 1840's due to 90 years of hard use. In 1846, the city commissioned metal workers to repair the bell. They widened the thin crack to prevent its farther spread and restored the tone of the bell using a technique known as "stop drilling." An image of the bell also appears on the $100 bill.

       Philadelphia's City Hall is the seat of government for the city located at the heart of the city's center. The largest municipal building in the country, it is a fine example of Second Empire style architecture. The masonry building's weight is borne by granite and brick walls measuring up to 22 feet thick. The principal exterior materials include limestone, granite and marble. The only structural and exterior metallic parts of the building are the upper portion of the clock tower and the bronze statuary. From 1894 to 1908, it was the tallest habitable building in the world at 548 feet. 

City Hall from side street and City Center

City Center Square

We explored the surrounding streets adjacent to the City Center in awe of the amazing architectural details on several buildings.

We ended the day by trekking over to the City of Brotherly Love's best known landmark - the LOVE sign. Designed by Robert Indiana, the LOVE sign is iconic, with recreations in several globally.

Additional images can be viewed here.

At 3 a.m. on Saturday morning, we drove 5+ hours from NYC  to Vermont. There was a stunning sunrise along the interstate headed north. 

Our first stop was Quechee Gorge in Vermont along Route 4. The gorge is the deepest in Vermont at 165 feet. It cuts through the bedrock of Devonian Gile Mountain Formation and the Mesozoic mafic dikes. The Ottauquechee River flows through the bottom of the gorge and is often used for kayaking. 

Thereafter, we headed to Lost River Gorge/Reservation in New Hampshire. The reservation is a protected area with a series of caves along the gorge in the White Mountains. The Lost River is so-named because the brook draining the southern part of Kinsman Notch disappears below the surface in a narrow and steep-walled glacial gorge. The reservation is accessible via wooden paths and stairways in and around the gorge.

Our our way out of New Hampshire, we cruised along colorful routes before stopping at the base of White Mountain for a quick snap.

        The next day, we headed to Maine. On our way, we crossed the Penabscot Narrows Bridge. There was an observatory on the 2,210 feet cable-stayed bridge, the tallest public bridge observatory in the world at 420 feet in the West Tower! The views from the tower were breathtaking! 

We continued our drive through Maine to Cadillac Mountain, located on Mount Desert Island within Acadia National Park. The mountain's summit has an elevation of 1,530 feet and is the tallest mountain in the park and the eastern coast of the United States. We spent the entire day stopping along various points of interest along the 3.5 mile winding and narrow road en route to the mountain.

Thunder Hole is a natural wonder carved out of coastal rocks. The small cavern at the bottom of the inlet, coupled with the combination of waves hitting the rocks and the release of air from the cavern cause a thunderous boom, hence the name.

At the mountain's peak were draw dropping views of the coast and park as far as the eye can see. At 1,500+ feet in the air, clouds hugged the landscape to create a picturesque image.

A bit further out, cruise ships and yachts can be seen off the coast of Nova Scotia.

Naturally, the sunset was beyond gorgeous. 

        On Monday morning, we drove to Plum Island in Massachusetts. As a barrier island, Plum Island is 11 miles long and is named after the wild beach plum shrubs that grow on its dunes. It is located within parts of four municipalities in Essex County: Newburyport, Newbury, Rowley and Ipswich. It was raining, and the beach was mostly covered in mild blanket of dewy fog, lovely nonetheless.

On our way to Boston, we stopped by Castle Hill on the Crane Estate in Ipswich. Castle Hill refers to the 165 acre drulim surrounded by sea and salt marsh and the mansion that sits on the hill. The former summer home of Mr. and Mrs. Richard T. Crane, Jr. (famous for plumbings), the estate includes a historic mansion, 21 outbuildings and designed landscapes overlooking Ipswich Bay. The mansion, gardens, enormous lawns and bay area are scenes worthy of postcard memorabilia. The estate features prominently in Witches of Eastwick, Flowers in the Attic and Ghosts of Girlfriends Past.

Estate interiors

Estate from Grand Allee/lawn

The Grand Allee/lawn facing the ocean

We arrived in Boston late afternoon amidst rush hour traffic. Utterly confused at the circular roadways, we parked the car and headed on foot to downtown and Beacon Hill. Along Freedom Trail, we stopped by Faneuil Hall. A marketplace and meeting hall since 1743, this beautiful red brick structure is packed with tasty treats and touristy knit knats. No wonder it's rated #4 in America's most visited tourist sites by Forbes Traveler!

We continued on to Old State House. Built in 1713, it was the seat of the Massachusetts General Court until 1798, and is one of the oldest public buildings in the U.S. It now serves as a history museum operated by the Bostonian Society and has been designated a National Historic Landmark since 1960.

A few blocks over, we entered Beacon Hill. A district of federal-style row houses, narrow gaslit streets and brick sidewalks, this quaint neighborhood is beautifully scenic. 

We left around 8 p.m. and were home before midnight. Quite an active weekend, but one filled with lasting memories and 1000+ photos (more available here).

Happy Deepavali from the kitties and us!

Week 6: Levitation

Week 5: Shoot from Above

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Week 4: Shoot from Below

         Shot this from the foot of the servants' stairs at the Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site at Hyde Park, NY. For post processing, I added a matte effect and enhanced the brown colors to give a golden-look to the overall image. 

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Preparation: Before any shoot, you should have at least some details planned out (and set up) ahead of time. You ought to consider the location, your subject’s wardrobe, hairstyle, accessories or props, the specific camera gear you’d be taking along, the time you’ll be shooting and so forth.

Location: I cannot stress this enough! Location is a key factor when shooting with natural light. Depending on the type of shoot you have planned, you may choose between an urban and rural landscape. Thereafter, you can further narrow your choice between solitary or a more populated environment (remember you can always find great urban spaces that is not overflowing with people). You should always keep in mind the amount of light that is present in the space you plan to shoot. Therefore, it’s best to scope the area you wish to shoot in beforehand.

Urban (populated) vs. rural setting

Patience and décorum: Working with any subject can be challenging (especially if you’re meeting that person for the first time on the day of the shoot). If you’re working with an experienced model, then posing may be relatively easy and the shoot should be over quickly. If you’re working with someone who’s still learning their angles, then direction must be clear as crystal. Throughout this session, you should be polite and patient with your subject. If they are uncomfortable or at odds with your direction, It will definitely come across in the photos. I usually try to make shoots educational by giving the subject a brief overview of the angles I’ll be shooting from, the poses and expressions I want them to try. I always remind them to let me know if they’re uncomfortable with anything and that we can definitely try other options. Always take a few breaks so that both you and your subject can relax during the shoot. Finally, it takes a few clicks before you get the shots you’re looking for. So don’t become frustrated if you haven’t gotten what you’re looking for within the first 50 or 100 photos.

I absolutely love shooting portraits with natural light. It compliments most subjects gracefully and it’s totally free! It’s crucial to remember that natural lighting changes every hour, and varies depending on the season and location you’re shooting in. That said, here are my seven tips for shooting portraits with natural light.

1. Back light: Depending on your style, you may choose to filter the light through trees, foliage, buildings, etc or have your back light be light via sun flare or hazy lighting. Always remember that you can attach a lens hood to your camera to further reduce haze in your backlight. Whichever you prefer, always consider how this will affect the overall frame of your image.

2. Where you should stand: Almost always, you should stand in the shade. In doing so, you can control the amount of sunlight that may seep directly into your lens. If you’re in an open space with no shade, then position your camera in such a way that the sun is at a slight angle to your camera.  Again, make sure that the light is not entering your lens straight on (unless you want to mimic a sun flare, etc).

3. Quality of light: Position your subject in such a way so that they are adequately lit by sunlight. It is paramount not to underexpose the most important element of your photo – your subject. Additionally, do not bounce harsh light off of your subject or have them look directly towards the sun, otherwise there will be unflattering and distracting contrasty blobs on your subject. They will also squint and get watery eyes! All that said, it’s best to shoot during the “golden hour” when shooting with natural light. The golden hour is usually during sunrise or sunset. 

Left image: subject facing sunlight (harsh light); right image: subject lit with natural light via reflector

4. Positioning your subject: if you scouted the location beforehand, then you’d know where to position your subject. If you did not, then you may want to spend a few minutes positioning your model in several spots to see what how well the lighting compliments your subject. You can assess the light by having your subject turn 360 degrees and see how it changes on their faces or bodies.

5. Use the light to your advantage: I always carry a reflector with me to capitalize on natural light (especially if the light begins to vanish at sunset). You can reflect light unto your subject by bouncing it off of the reflector. You can use different layers of the reflector to achieve different light results. For example, a diffuser will make the bouncing light less harsh on your subject. A silver reflector, will make the bouncing light a bit brighter on your subject while a copper/yellow reflector will add a warm glow to your subject.  Left image: natural light w/reflector diffuser; middle image: light behind subject w/ copper reflector; right image: natural light only

6. Camera settings: In any type of portraiture, it’s vital to have a connection with your subject. You may have great lighting and a beautiful composite, but the image will not be truly appreciated if the shot lacks a connection with your subject. To achieve such a connection, focus on the eyes is key. Whenever we look at a photo of another person, the first thing we connect with is their eyes. Be sure to make the eyes a focal point. You can always use manual focus if your autofocus doesn’t get it quite right. It is also imperative to use a large aperture (low f-number) to blur out/bokeh the background so that does not distract from your subject.  7. Practice and have fun: Two things: practice makes perfect and photography should be fun. Photography is an art, and portraiture photography is no exception. Don’t be afraid to ask family, friends or acquaintances to pose so you can practice your techniques and learn to efficiently communicate with your subject. Finally, you can make your art look any way you want it to. As long as you’re happy with your final product, then that’s all that really matters. 

Happy shooting!

Week 3: Greetings From            This week's theme required Framers to showcase their hometown. I chose Kenisco Dam in Valhalla, Westchester for my shot. At the height of the damn, there is an amazing view of the Kenisco Reservoir. I shot the above image just as the sunset began. In post processing, I desaturated the yellows and whites. I increased the blues and greens so there was balance between the sky and water. I adjusted the clarity to add some depth to the space between the water and the sky. Finally, I added a heavy vignette in the lower part of the image to add a bit of contrast.

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Caption: Les Yeux

Week 2: Black & White

           For this week's theme, I kept it simple. I shot the above image using a LED continuous light held directly above the cat. I used a wide aperture to highlight the fur textures and whiskers on the cat. In post processing, I made the image B & W. To further enhance the image, I increased the clarity around the nose, eyes and upper mouth. I tweaked the shadows and blacks and added a blue undertone via split toning. Here's a before and after.

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Caption: Renewed

Week 1: Self Portrait

          HAPPY 2016! As we enter the new year, 52 Frames once again required photographers to put themselves before the lens. Week 1 had us dig deep to try and display our personalities, personal style and faces in a way that made us feel comfortable or vulnerable. I had no idea what to do for my submission, except that it needed to be different from last year's. I did some research on some notable self portraits and ultimately decided to be playful with mine. 

          I rubbed some tempura paint on my face, upper body and hair. I sat in front of a white backdrop with a soft box to my right. I got my clicker and began posing. After 100 odd shots, I decided to call it a night. I browsed my captures and edited six. Thereafter, I tried to decide on which image popped the most. Finally, I settled on the above image because it captured the magic of eyes piercing through the photo. Here's a before and after.

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Caption: Tranquil

Fifty Two: What I've learned

        What have I learned? -- That it's okay to not overthink a photo. That natural light can be used more advantageously than studio lighting. That photography gear is not nearly as important as learning to make the best use of said gear. That patience goes a long way. That artistic drought is a real thing. And finally, that inspiration and art can be found in almost everything, we just need to look a bit harder. Here's to saying goodbye to a wonderful 2015, and a big HELLO to all that 2016 has to offer.

        The above shot was taken against a window. Natural light filled the frame as the kitty was basking in the sun. This image was edited to add some clarity and a bit of vignette.

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     smile emoticHere's to saying goodbye to a wonderful 2015, and a big HELLO to all that 2016 has to offer.

Caption: Carefree

Challenges included: One light source & focus

Fifty one: Two Challenges Combined

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Caption: Tangled

Fifty: Body

         This week was truly a struggle. I had several ideas I wanted to try, but in the end... I had no time! This shot was super ad hoc and impromptu. I had my sister wear knee high socks and I wrapped LED white lights around her legs. I shot 17 frames and edited 4 images. Finally, I decided on the above image as it was a great mix of focus and blurriness. The entire process from start to upload took 30 minutes (talk about efficiency!). Here's a before and after.

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Caption: The Land of Dolls

Forty-nine: Behind the subject

        'Tis the season of everything festive and beautiful! Yesterday, I saw The Nutcracker performed by high schoolers of New Canaan. It was absolutely spectacular! I used my 18-135mm f/3.5 to shoot because I was some distance away from the stage. The above image is one of favs from the show. I edited the still in LR to add more of a snowy-night feel. I increased the blacks and shadows, and played around with RGB curves until I had the right amount of contrast between the ballerinas and background. Here's a before and after.

        Here are some additional shots from the performance. To view more, click here.

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Caption: Doggy Sass

Forty-Seven: Animals

           Decided to change it up this week by photographing a dog :). LB was quite the poser! Special thanks to his human companion for letting me capture all his sass. Here are some other shots from this adventure.

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Caption: Les Fleurs

Forty-Six: Extreme Angle

           This week, I decided to keep it simple by shooting dried flowers hung upside down. I SOOC image was pretty dull, so I edited the shot in Lightroom to make it pop. I increased the clarity, darkened the shadows, increased the saturation/vibrance, and played around with split toning for added color variation. Here's a before and after for comparison.

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Caption: Blah

Forty-four: Emotion

       Yet another last minute photo that resulted in a lucky shot! My cat was playing in a box on the patio and just as he was about to yawn, I snapped this. His opened mouth and empty stare suggests that he's feeling pretty "blah" (hence the caption). This shot was edited in LR to increase the sharpness and increase the yellow and green tones. 

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Caption: Mind Controller

Forty: Sound

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Caption: Imperfect

Thirty-nine: Imperfect

Basically, the focus is off :) 

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Quote: My soul is a hidden forest where you will find gems of my past life.

Thirty-Eight: Personality

       Another tough one! This week's theme required us showcasing our personalities without using ourselves. I decided to go with my roots for this one. I chose Indian bangles as my subject, and shot outdoors. The final edit had a heavy vignette to draw attention to the detailed artwork of the bangles. In a nutshell, the bangles highlight my ancestry, while the outdoors symbolizes my love for nature. The heavy vignette captures my editing preference of rich, yet subtle colors that sometimes border on a goth-like finish. 

        Here's a before and after for comparison.

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Caption: Limitless

Thirty-six: Dream

"See the dream around you."

          This week was tough! I knew I had to get creative, but I had no inspiration. Late Saturday night, I decided to go "girly" with this. I strung my trusted ivory tulle in and out of some tree branches, and adorned the wall with some vines and roses. I had my model stand in between the tulle as I tried shooting from several angles. Eventually, I settled on her back facing the camera with her head turned ever so slightly to reveal a subtle outline of her face. Very little editing was done in post-processing. I blurred the background further, added some warmth and added a matte finish by adjusting the RGB curve in Lightroom. Here's a before and after.

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Caption: Agni

Thirty-five: Fire

"Closing my eyes doesn't help. Fire burns brighter in the darkness."

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Caption: Broken

Thirty-four: Wabi Sabi

“I have to remind myself to breathe -- almost to remind my heart to beat!” 

          Been super busy! This was a last minute shot of an illustrated scene of Catherine Earnshaw from Wuthering Heights, complemented by a dried flower stalk. I laid the drawing and stalk on a tiny table facing a window. The light was absolutely perfect! I quickly edited the shot in LR to increased the clarity and tweak the RGB curve to achieve a softer color tone for the final image.

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Extra Credit: Portrait 

Thirty-two: Edited by Someone Else

“A kitten is, in the animal world, what a rosebud is in the garden.” 

           Introducing our new cat, Seraphina! This little cutie joined our home July '15. She's a calico tabby who is full of energy. For this week's theme, I shot her and my sister against a plain wall adorned with hanging butterflies. Since the theme required the photo being edited by someone else, I had the amazing Ali Kvidt work her magic. She opted for a B & W finish, which is pretty stellar... as the colored option was kinda odd. Here's a before and after.

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Caption: A world of my own.

Thirty-one: Magic Hour

“It was the Magic Hour, the moment in time when every leaf and blade of grass seemed to separate, when sunlight, burnished by the rain and softened by the coming night, gave the world an impossibly beautiful glow.”

          This was shot on the steps below Kensico Dam in Westchester at around 5:45 pm. The sun was setting, and the trees were awashed in the orangey-hues of the sunset. In post processing, I simply increased the warmth and played around with the RGB curve to enhance to green and blue undertones. 

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Caption: La Fille 

Thirty: Unusual

          This was a tough one. In addition to having no time to shoot this week, I had no creative ideas. I shot these photos two hours before submission! I let my hair loose, and wore a salmon colored eyelet dress with a basket hat so I could look extra "girly." For those who know me, I'm a jeans and tshirt kinda girl. Whenever I wear a dress, it's a bit of an indulgence. Hence, my "unusual" was me donning a cute dress and showing off my long hair (which has been growing for over a year now). I went a step further by cropping the photos in odd ways (something I try generally try to avoid as a photography don't). The images were edited in Lightroom to add a matte look, with a few tone adjustments to add some variety to the different shots. 

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Caption: In the moment.

Twenty-nine: Street Photography

        Took a paparazzi shot of New Yorker in Bryan Park. This image was added in Lightroom to add vibrance, increase clarity and a touch of vignette.

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Caption: No water, no life. No blue, no green.

Twenty-seven: Water

         This was shot at sunset during the golden hour. The image was edited in Lightroom to increase clarity and add some tone adjustments.

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Extra Credit: White Background

Caption: Maybe tonight we'll start all over like it's the first day of our lives.

Twenty-six: Negative Space

       Last year, I won the Negative Space challenge on 52 Frames. My setup was simple. It was a black shawl coupled with a handful of dried yellow roses. For this week's challenge, I decided to blend a black and white background to create a subtle dewy-like backdrop. I hung a black backdrop against the wall and draped ivory tulle infront of that. I attached a orange & yellow butterfly to the tulle as a focus point as I was using the lantern as my only source of light. I instructed my model to hold the lantern at the midway point between her and the butterfly and began shooting. After quite a few out of focus and blurry shots, I captured the above image. 

       Very minimal editing was needed to transform the shot to what I wanted. I increased the clarity and saturation around the center of the tulle, butterfly and lantern. I sharpened the thinner layers of tulle to create a sand-like look and increased the blacks to create a more dramatic contrast to enhance the negative spaces. Finally, I adjusted the colortones to create a bluish shadow undertone. Here's the original image, along with a shot of the background and the lantern used.

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       Caption: The earth is art, the photographer is only a witness.

Twenty-five: Dress up

         This week threw me for a loop. I had zero ideas and absolutely no motivation. This was a haphazard shot that took quite a bit of editing to transform from mundane to something aesthetically pleasing. I visited Kykuit Mansion in Sleepy Hollow yesterday, and made a quick stop to Blue Mountain before returning home. I slipped on a vintage dress over my clothes, let my hair loose and stood in the rain with toes crossed hoping for a good shot. There was very little light to work with and my external flash hardly made a difference. Out of 50+ takes, I had one image I sorta liked. 

         The above was edited in Lightroom to readjust the exposure and create focus around the subject. To achieve this, I lightened the shadows around myself and decreased the exposure and highlights elsewhere. Thereafter, I tweaked various color tones for a less saturated image. Finally, I increased the blacks, shifted the RGB curve and played around with split toning until I had just the right amount of reds and blue undertones. Here's a before and after of the above image. 

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Twenty-four: Transportation

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Extra Credit: 1.8 Aperture or lower

Twenty-three: Focus

        This was a completely unplanned shoot. Earlier this week, I searched for inspiration by browsing works of fellow photographers. I came across this beautiful image by Lauren Laveria. I tried to recreate the scene, but I didn't have enough vines nor could I capture the subtle beautifulness as well as Lauren did. So I scrapped the idea and decided to piece together some props and hope I'd create a background worthy of a fairy. I placed some tree branches against a wall and weaved ivory tulle around it. I took a few shots and absolutely hated how plain and dull the setup looked. I draped the vines over the tulle and placed a handful of flowers on the vines in several places. Thereafter, I had my model sit in the open space between the branches. She had to be super careful as the slightest movement could've made the entire background collapse. I had her wear a floral headband I had made weeks prior, and then instructed her on posing. We wound up with 300 shots! 

         The above image was my favorite from the shoot. The shot was edited in Lightroom to add a heavy vignette, and for color correction so the image could pop. Here's a before and after comparison.

          Here are some other takes from the shoot. 

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Twenty-two: Advertisement

Extra Credit: Jeans Ad

Tag: "Give a girl the right pair of jeans and she can conquer the world."

         This week, I opted for the extra credit challenge. The challenge was to shoot an ad based on one of three creative briefs put forth by the 52 Frames Committee. I chose the jeans ad.

          This shot was taken during sunset a few blocks away from the High Line, NY. One of my best muses and I got together and shot a few different looks during this shoot. In preparation for the shoot, we discussed hair, makeup & wardrobe. The basic idea was to have photos portraying an edgy female in somewhat "masculine" poses. I asked that she style her hair so that it would be textured and full, with a smokey eye and red lips.

          About 50 shots later, I had my image. This shot was minimally edited to change the overall color tone of the photo. I wanted the end product to have a cool and matted look. To achieve that, I tweaked the RGB curve and adjusted the color tones to have a bluish-red highlight with a bluish-green shadow.

         Additional photos can be viewed here.

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Twenty-one: Architecture

            Week 21: Architecture

            Location: City Hall, Philadelphia. PA

           Last Sunday, some friends and I got together and did a day tour of Philadelphia. We left NY around 8:30am and got to downtown Philadelphia by 11am. First, we toured Eastern State Penitentiary. It was once the most famous and expensive prisons in the world, but stands today in ruin as a haunting world of crumbling cellblocks. We toured the prison for a good three hours. Thereafter, we drove to the heart of Philadelphia and had lunch at a cozy spot blocks away from Independence Hall. We continued the tour by visiting the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, the Love Monument, Constitution Center, City Hall and the famous Rocky steps at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Suffice it to say, we were all spent on the drive home.

          This shot was taken at one of the four entrances to Philadelphia's City Hall. I stood 10 feet away from the base of the building and aimed my camera upwards to capture this shot. I tried to get as much of the lower columns as I could, while still capturing the upper most tip of the building. I converted the image to black & white in Lightroom to add a dramatic look. I decreased the blacks and increased the highlights to add more contrast to the smaller details embedded within the columns and windows.

         Additional photos can be found here.

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Twenty: One light source

Week 20: One Light Source

            Shot this around 2 am Sunday morning, and she looks radiant! This was a hectic week. Was super busy at work all week, and had another shoot for Saturday. Finished that shoot at 6 pm, picked up a few friends and headed to dinner. Luckily, there were staying over for the night as we were headed to Philadelphia the next day. So we set up the softbox and took turns shooting our respective photos!

           This is a shot of my very close friend, Roslyn. Before the shoot, I had her style her hair on one side so I could place some flowers and pine leaves in it. We then practiced posing (this was the first time she was acting as my muse). We shot 50 takes, and I had my photo!

            This image was edited in Lightroom to add a bit of warmth and decrease the highlights. I increased the blacks so they weren't as black, and I readjusted the shadows to add a subtle orange-pink glow. Finally, I adjusted the RGB curve for a soft matte look, and slightly increased the clarity for a touch of sharpness. Finished all time minutes to 4 am, submitted and went to bed... we were scheduled to leave in the morning at 8 am!

            Special thank you to Roslyn for being such a sport! The remainder of the group's album can be seen here.

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            The first image was adjusted for exposure and a bit more clarity. Thereafter, I tweaked the RGB curve and played around with split toning until I got just the right amount of yellow and blue undertones to complement the model's face. The second image was a bit harder to edit since the model was not facing the sunlight. I adjusted her skin tone colors so it was as similar as it could be to the first image. I deepened the blacks and shadows to add a bit of texture to her hair and adjusted the color curve to give it an overall matte look. Here's a before and after of both images.

           I wish I had a few moments with this beauty. I'd love to hand her a parsol and take some super girly shots! Ah well... headed to an adventure with my friend this weekend. Stay tuned for more photos! 

To view my friend's work, click here.

Eighteen: Behind the Scenes

Week 18: Behind the Scenes

Location: Ford Foundation, Manhattan. NY.

        I was at somewhat at a lost for this week's theme. I didn't have enough time to request permission to "off limits" location, and I didn't want to settle for shooting a behind the scenes photoshoot. So I compromised. The Ford Foundation is not an "off the limits" location, but very few folks seem to know that their atrium garden is open to the public for recreation.

          I visited the building after work, and verified with security about taking photos before I got my camera out. He was super nice! He basically said, "Go crazy!" I walked around the garden twice before deciding on what angle I wanted to shoot from. Ultimately, I decided to do an all encompassing shot with the garden, stairs and offices. I shot with at 18mm portrait.

         I edited the image in Lightroom to tone down the overexposure and adjust the clarity for a sharper overall look. Thereafter, I tweaked the RGB curve to add a matte-like feel to the shot.

        Here's the link to the group's album.

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Seventeen: Macro

            This is a shot of a prickly cactus that was taken with a Canon 60 mm 2.8 lens. I used natural light from a nearby window as my light source and took five shots from different angles. I edited the image in LR to crop, rotate and tweak the color tones. Here's a before and after of the above image.

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Sixteen: Through the Eyes of a Child

            Didn't have the time to collaborate with a child for this week's theme, so I dug into my childhood books and toys for inspiration. Eventually, I decided to feature Pooh and a collection of stories for my submission this week. The set up was pretty simple. I balanced the book on the table and positioned Pooh's hand on the book to make him seem as though he's inviting you to come sit and have story times with him. I used an external flash to minimize the shadows and quickly edited the image in Lightroom.

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  Fifteen: Nature           

            Week 15: Nature

          "We never noticed the beauty, because we were too busy trying to create it."

         This was a fairly simple challenge, just head outdoors and shoot pieces of nature that caught the eye. Unfortunately, New York has not yet had 'spring" weather. There are very few blossoms to be seen anywhere. As a result, I searched for non-flowering plants as my inspiration for this week's theme. I noticed this amazing cluster of poison ivy vines about a block away from my house sometime last week. So I headed out to that very spot and snapped a few shots of the vines from several angles. Thereafter, I quickly edited the image in Lightroom to change the overall toning of the image. I made the greens more subtle, but increased the saturation on the yellow/brown leaves. I also tweaked the RGB curve to add a matte-like look and to soften the blacks. It's not the most captivating image, but I do like the final result. 

Photo Specs:

         Extra Credit: Nude

Fourteen: Abstract

           Caption: Awoken 

          Thirteen: Levitation Crazy week! This challenge truly threw me for a loop. I went back and forth in my head all week on ways to portray levitation without having to indulge in Photoshop. However, I never got the time to experiment. Moreover, I knew my shot would either be a self portrait or of the cats. I had no models to work with, and my sister is away on vacation. I did extensive research on posing, before and after stills of levitation and layer masking in PS. I bought a stool and way too many flowers because I knew I wanted a prop, but hadn't decided on the color or the amount of flowers. I transformed my living room into a full studio with a black background, softbox and several other lighting sources. I set the stool in the center of the backdrop and got to shooting. After enduring an hour of uncomfortable posing and blood rushing to my head, I had a few takes to work with. Thereafter, I took a shot of the backdrop without the stool as the layer that would be used to erase the stool and any other imperfections. While in PS, I also extended the background and flipped the angle of my pose to make it more "levitating." Here's a  SOOC and the edit before the reposition. 

Photo Specs:

Twelve: SOOC

Photo Specs:

           Caption: The Way of the Cross

Eleven: Ritual

            Not much to say this week. I wanted to photograph someone praying the rosary. However, I couldn't locate mine, so I wound up taking a photo a crucifix necklace. Funny enough, the cover photo from this week's album was of someone praying the rosary! This image was edited in Lightroom to add some contrast.

Photo Specs:

             Caption: Cats are connoisseurs of comfort. 

Ten: Reflection

           This image was shot and edited in 90 minutes. I was super pressed for time and completely devoid of innovative ideas. I kept it simple by using a mirror, my cat and natural light. I laid the mirror flat on the floor so that it was well lit by the light from the window. Then I had my cat lay on the mirror (with someone helping to hold her in place). I took 25 takes, and quickly sorted through what I had to work with. The above image was edited in Lightroom to clone several areas to make it seem like I used an endless mirror. I had sharpened the the facial outlines of the cat, and blurred the outer perimeters of the shot. I also tweaked the RGB and tone curves to add a bit of red-orangish glow to the overall image. 

Photo Specs:

            Caption: The Lady

Nine: Black & White

            I was super pressed for time this week, so I kept it pretty simple. I had my subject wear an oversized striped sun hat and we got to shooting. I had my subject sit two feet in front of a black backdrop. I used an external flash pointed directly at the ceiling so that the light would bounce downwards and fill the outlines of my subject and the hat. The image was edited in Lightroom to adjust the contrast and RGB levels. 

Photo Specs:

           Extra Credit: Photojournalism

           Caption: "it hurts, but that's ok.. I'm used to it."

Eight: Make a Statement          There is no point treating a depressed person as though she were just feeling sad, saying, 'There now, hang on, you'll get over it.' Sadness is more or less like a head cold- with patience, it passes. Depression is like cancer. -- Barbara Kingsolver, The Bean Trees

          This week was quite the challenge. It's no easy task capturing an image that can "make a statement" without including a few words to convey what you're trying to portray. This was made even harder with the extra credit being photojournalism. I spent almost four days researching photojournalistic images, social issues captures, and so forth. Eventually, I settled on a simple portrait that would include some words and soft lighting to convey my chosen topic, "depression." 

        The above image was inspired by a striking image I came across while browsing through depression related photography. I tried to recreate the image as closely as I could, while adding a bit more of my personal touch to the final edit. I used a large softbox to light the model and canvas. The softbox was positioned to the model's right, thereby allowing for the shadow on her left. I shot approximately fifty images. Quite a few involved the model experimenting with facial expressions and hand gestures. Here's two takes that were my runner-ups for this week.

             The final image was edited in Lightroom to decrease saturation, adjust clarity and grain, with some tweaks to the RGB curve and color tones. The full bodied colored shot was my first take! The bluish-black image was my second to last take.

Special thanks to my amazing sister for induling me (as always). 

Photo Specs:

           Caption: Which would you choose?

Seven: Rule of Odds

            The rule of odds states that images are more visually appealing when there is an odd number of subjects. Studies have shown that people are actually more at ease and comfort when viewing imagery with an odd number of subjects, rather than in pairs or even numbers. Odd right? Ah well...  I tried photographing three apples and three necklaces. In the end, I went with the necklaces.

             The set up for this week's photo was relatively easy. I hung the pendant necklaces from push pins against a wall. The perfectionist in me ensured that they were arranged in descending order. I took quite a few shots from different angles. At this point, I unsure as to which photo I'd be using for my submission. I edited a few images to add a vintage feel to it. Then I played around with colors and hues to get just the perfect color scheme. It's the funniest thing when taking a photo becomes less stressful than editing the image to achieve the look you had in mind. Here's a collage of the two color schemes I was torn between. Eventually, I chose the bluer-tint.

          Extra Credit: Famous Love Story

            "There may be something there that wasn't there before. "

Six: Love

            Valentine's Day is upon us! Of course the founders of 52 Frames went with Love for this week's theme.  I can't stress just how many fellow framers were unexcited or slightly at odds with this theme. It's probably because Love is a tricky subject to do without getting too corny with ideas. Earlier this week, I set out to recreate a portrait of Shahrukh & Kajol from Kabh Kushi Kabhie Gham. The shoot was over in minutes because we were both at risk for hypothermia. Here are two takes from what I got.

           The images are ok. But it's quite evident that we're super cold and the photo doesn't showcase "love" the way I had hoped. I scrapped the idea entirely and researched for something new. I stumbled across this ridiculously cute shot of a couple showcasing love a la Disney style! The photo was simple, but it was brilliant! Since the extra credit was "famous love story," I figured why not kill two birds with one stone and try to recreate something similar? I knew instantly that my story was going to inspired by Beauty and the Beast. I came across the original production sketch for Beast and printed it out. I retraced the sketch with a darker pencil to add a bit more darkness to the outlines. To imitate Belle, I wore a simple white knit sweater and a blue romper, with a floral scarf semi-braided into my hair. We set the camera on a tripod, put it on remote timer and got to shooting. We took 143 images! Only two were akin to what I was looking for. I edited both images and consulted my boyfriend on which image he preferred. He loved the above image, and so did I!

            Not entirely sure if we captured the "love" element adequately, but at least I'm satisfied with my final submission! In retrospect, I should've enlarged the sketch on a bigger paper or cardboard. Ah well... next time!

            Caption: Greetings from a sunkissed Lady Liberty

Five: Greetings from

          This shot was taken from the Brooklyn Bridge during sunset earlier this week. The scenery was so beautiful, very little editing was needed. I merely added a bit of clarity to sharpen the outlines of the Statue of Liberty, and tweaked the vibrance to make the blues, oranges and yellows pop.

          This was actually unplanned and an entirely lucky shot! I just happened to be walking over the bridge during sunset. I was hoping to catch a skyline shot of downtown Manhattan from Brooklyn. I took about 50 shots, but was dissatisfied with the results. I also figured that skyline shots of Manhattan was a bit too obvious for the theme. So, I began walking the Brooklyn bridge hoping to get a workable shot of pedestrians and the bridge. I took a few, and then the sun began to set. The entire landscape was washed in beautiful hues of yellows, oranges, reds, purples and blues. It was absolutely stunning. I immediately knew, my shot would include the sunset. It wasn't until after I got home that I decided on the above image as my selection for this week's theme. Here are some other images of angles and colors I captured.

Manhattan Bridge, NYC

Lady Liberty

          My sister took an amazing panorama of the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges just before our walk over the bridge. Funny enough, the Brooklyn bridge was covered by clouds and the Manhattan bridge is entirely lit up by the sun. We themed this shot, "Fire and Ice."

Brooklyn + Manhattan Bridges

          The extra credit challenge this week was to take an shot using a 16 mm lens or less. I do not have such a wide angle lens. My telephoto ranges from 18 mm to 135 mm. The photo I chose for submission was taken with the telephoto lens zoomed in at 135 mm. The larger landscape shot of Lady Liberty was taken at 53 mm. It was simply not possible to have a shot taken at 18 or 16 mm from where I was standing. My subject (the Statue of Liberty) was simply too distant from the bridge.

           Extra Credit: Fashion

             "Do what you believe in, and watch yourself blossom."

Four: Complementary Colors

           Believe it or not, this was an exceptionally difficult theme. At the beginning of the week, I was bursting with ideas for fashion related photos. By Wednesday, I was utterly confused on what to do after reviewing the complementary color chart. My closet is pretty black and white, and I had limited time to sort through clothes that would adequately represent the theme if I wanted to partake in the extra credit challenge. Luckily, I had a mint green dress lying around and some roses from my birthday earlier this week. Thankfully, green and red are complementary colors :). NY had snow in the wee hours of Saturday morning. I capitalized on this by using my backyard as my backdrop. I shot for about 15 minutes because it was simply too cold out to shoot any longer. I got 78 takes, only 5 were usable. 

            I edited the images with Wuthering Heights in mind (that might explain the gothist look). Funny enough, the final edit reminds me of the deer/moose/stag from Hannibal. I submitted the above image as my pick for this week's theme because I was unhappy with the other takes. There were just too many flaws. For instance, the flowers weren't in focus, my right arm was peeking out of my side in a weird way or the pose was just too awkward. Here's a sample of my rejects.

           Not sure if my submission is colorful enough for complementary colors, but I wanted my shot to minimal and soft. What are your thoughts?

           Extra Credit: Leading lines

Three: Lines

            “Only a friend or a giraffe would stick his neck out for you. But only a giraffe would eat all the leaves off your tree so he could peek in your second story bedroom window.” 

Two: Silhouette

              I hope this photo brought you some much needed warmth amidst this winter blizzard. Funny enough, the above image was not my initial concept. I came across quite a romantic silhouette that I tried to recreate with cardboard cutouts, but it didn't quite work out the way I wanted it. Thereafter, I tried shooting a velociraptor, artificial stems,a jewelry organizer and my cats. I wasn't pleased with any of the outcomes. Here's a composite of my attempts.

            The set up for the ones against the white backdrop was fairly simply. I hung a plain white backdrop against a bookshelf and aimed a spotlight at the white space. Then I placed a table a foot away from the backdrop and positioned my subjects in front of the brightest part of where the spotlight shone. I aimed at the center of my subjects while shooting. The images were edited to further darken the blacks to give the silhouette a more defined outline. The same setup was used for the giraffe shot. I added a bit of warmth and tweaked the yellow and orange hues in post processing to add the sunset or island-like look to the final edit. The setup for the couple against the colored lights was slightly different. I hung black backdrop and randomly attached the colored lights with safety pins. Afterwards, I placed my cutouts on black table a foot and a half in front of the lights and shot with a 2.0 aperture to enhance the bokeh effect. Though I really liked the silhouette couple, I was not pleased with the fuzzy edges of the cutout. I tried my best to refine the edges with an X-acto knife and scissors, but the cutout was too tiny and fragile to handle further adjustments. 

           This was my second attempt at silhouette since joining 52 Frames. My first attempt can be found here. 

           Super excited for the album this week. Be sure to check the weekly submission on the group's Facebook page. 

             There was quite a learning curb that accompanied the 50mm. My primary lens has always been the 18-135mm zoom lens. So shooting was relatively easy with the zoom option and automatic aperture adjustment. However, the 50mm is a fixed lens and you must walk towards or away from your subject while shooting. Additionally, if you're shooting in manual, you'll soon find that a fixed aperture doesn't work for every shot. You must adjust the aperture as you shoot depending on the subject, the amount of light you want to be in the frame and so forth. A quick reminder, at 1.4, the lens eye is opened to its fullest and the most light is let in. At higher apertures, the lens eye becomes smaller and less light is allowed. So you must compensate for the loss of light via ISO or f/stop adjustments. 

             Ever since I added the 50mm 1.4 to my camera bag, it has become my "go to" lens for portraits. Here's some of my favorite portraits I've taken over the last six months. Of course some tweaks were made to enhance some colors and spot heal, but most of what you see is directly from manipulating various camera settings to get the most out of the 50mm and the 1.4 aperture.

          I'm still learning the parameters of this lens and how to work it best. Here's a great blog post on the importance of manipulating aperture to achieve better results with the 50mm. 

             "Loving oneself isn't hard, when you understand who and what 'yourself' is. It has nothing to do with the shape of your face, the size of your eyes, the length of your hair or the quality of your clothes. It's so beyond all of those things and it's what gives life to everything about you. Your own self is such a treasure."

One: Self Portrait

        As always, the theme this week was Self Portrait. I procrastinated until the very end to take my photo (as evidenced by my smudged eyeliner that I noticed during post processing). I tried to do a cheerier and more Gaia-like photo this time around. I knew I wanted to have flowers in my portrait. So I made a floral crown of pine leaves, little pink and yellow roses with a few other random plant things stuffed in between. Believe it or not, it took me three hours to make that headpiece! 

       For my setup, I hung my favorite black backdrop against a bookshelf and positioned my camera on tripod approximately four feet in front of where I'd be sitting. Thereafter, I quickly did my makeup, fixed my fair, threw on a knit sweater and affixed my crown. I sat a foot away from the back drop and began shooting. After 137 takes, I figured I'd review what I had. I narrowed my options to 5 shots and began editing. 

       I added a bit of clarity around my eyes for an extra pop and tweaked the RGB curve for a more matte-look. A few more tweaks were made in the red, orange and yellow tones so that the image would not appear overly saturated in the matte color tone.

       I'm not entirely happy with the final edit, but I had to submit before the deadline (otherwise, the Clicktator would kill me). I'm super excited to see all the selfies this week, especially since we have so many new members! Be sure to check out the 52 Frames facebook page!

        "Life is like a landscape. You live in the midst of it but can describe it only from the vantage point of distance."

           The above shot was taken at the top of Blue Mountain in Peekskill, New York. It was somewhat of a dreary afternoon, so I edited the image to further enhance the mood. I played around with the purples, pink and teal undertones. Here's the SOOC and the final edit for comparison.

         "There's no elevator to success. You must climb the stairway of knowledge."

Week 52+: Stairs           I was truly at a lost for photo this week. I didn't have the time to shoot anything amazing and I was on the verge of not submitting to 52 Frames this week. I eventually caved to a bit of peer pressure and fear of the Clicktator's wrath. I built my own stairs using a collection of Shakespeare plays and got to shooting. I'm not entirely pleased with the final result, but consistency is the key to improving one's skills, right? Here is another take that was heavily edited for a more polished look.

        This week was a bit difficult. Ironic, right? First, I tried my utmost to capture something different. Second, I tried even harder to resist turning my photo in B & W (as it was the most obvious). Clearly, I failed both my goals:( Nevertheless, the image below was probably the best from what I had to choose from. The concept was simple. A dried rose, a wooden backdrop to rest the rose on and black cloth for the background. I turned off all the lights and focused a single continuous light on the rose from above. I pointed my flash towards the ceiling and got to shooting. After a 20 takes, I had the below image. 

          The shot was edited in LR to strip away all colors. I also played around with the RGB curve for maximum contrast. I also tweaked the black and shadow sliders until I got just the right amount of grey to black hues. Here's a before and after of the above image (with a preview of some of the LR tweaks).

          Funny enough, the rose was not my first attempt for this theme. Initially, I opted to capture several contrasting colors in it's simplest form. I aligned some pencils and took a few shots. The photo was nice, but it was just "okay." It did not have that "wow" factor I was looking for. Here's one of the captures post-processing.

          As mentioned before, the biggest struggle was choosing the right photo for submission to 52 Frames. Here are some of the other rose options I shot.

        Theme: Red   

        Until Wednesday, I was unsure of what to shoot this week. However, I had two last resort options. Option A, arrange several shades of red lipstick in a circle and take a shot from above, or Option B, have Nala wear a red dress. 

        I finally decided to contact a few models and see who'd be available for a last minute shoot Friday evening. Luckily, an amazing model from LA responded and we discussed the details of the shoot at midnight on Thursday. We met at the Brooklyn Bridge just as the sun was setting and got to shooting. Unfortunately, it started to rain and we had to cut short our shoot and seek an alternative location to continue since I wasn't quite sure I had gotten my shot.

       We trekked to Grand Central Station and capitalized on the lights from various booths throughout the Winter Marketplace in the South Concourse. About 20 takes later, I had my shot!

       This image was edited in LR to decrease the yellow hues from the lighting, and desaturate the overall image. Thereafter, I increased the clarity around her face, neck and shoulders. I then manipulated the RGB curve to give it a matte look and resaturated the headwrap and necklace.

      I found just the right quote to accompany my submission to 52 Frames, "Bright reds - scarlet, pillar-box red, crimson or cherry - are very cheerful and youthful. There is certainly a red for everyone." Here are some other shots from this session. 

Special thank you the amazing Joselyne Green for being my muse.